tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-67752406488007489702024-03-05T07:29:23.985-08:00Renikas anachronistic adventuresGreat oaks from little acorns growAnnahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.comBlogger84125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6775240648800748970.post-55060706267125009272019-08-14T04:28:00.001-07:002019-08-14T04:28:21.980-07:00From kirtle to a young man´s gownAs Medeltidsveckan, the large festival in our hometown, approached I once again found that the boys had grown. A lot. And, true to my aim at using what fabric I have and not buy new since a few years back, my fabric stash was empty of anything large enough to make something for them. So my gaze went to the number of kirtles that are not getting used anymore. My shortsleeved kirtle that is slightly too small and with the funky sleeves that never really worked well might need to be sacrificed. Said and done, in order to not ponder over it long enough to change my mind, I started to measure and cut.<br />
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The skirt was made of four long gores and was easily transformed into a young man´s gown in the plain fashion of the late 15th Century. Some seams could <span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline !important; float: none; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">even </span>be kept intact. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline !important; float: none; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">The main problem was the sleeves, the amount of fabric was not enough lengthwise, so I had to take two pieces out of the bodice back. This part was lined in a very thin green wool and was now used as cuffs, creating the nice effect of a contrasting lining when turned up. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA-2K5hMW_84e9CEZQkrWZPVreOBvvEGCupoYcmMqggqbCK_SDrpYCFP2iMXIoRxRDpMZ664NT2olnT0h5hzWk98ORSiAS6-v6NqIaOSCkS2_L_HtXcAa1vXZG_t4OQrhnbaihj2cUZG8/s1600/68292120_10156577042595036_1240936474107445248_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA-2K5hMW_84e9CEZQkrWZPVreOBvvEGCupoYcmMqggqbCK_SDrpYCFP2iMXIoRxRDpMZ664NT2olnT0h5hzWk98ORSiAS6-v6NqIaOSCkS2_L_HtXcAa1vXZG_t4OQrhnbaihj2cUZG8/s320/68292120_10156577042595036_1240936474107445248_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH7A3_vmxoDFk8zDrwez8VvJkZBPmabP01H_v4N0Gy3ASPWDfPAUs461Hd9uXPPv12C_dZxGUUrUwESz48YtmPa3MmKNsazRvBrAIPA3upc59JDMbn6ZihWIsj5sFMzI8dmvH_D-s5OsU/s1600/68544663_10156577042495036_5233674094083309568_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH7A3_vmxoDFk8zDrwez8VvJkZBPmabP01H_v4N0Gy3ASPWDfPAUs461Hd9uXPPv12C_dZxGUUrUwESz48YtmPa3MmKNsazRvBrAIPA3upc59JDMbn6ZihWIsj5sFMzI8dmvH_D-s5OsU/s320/68544663_10156577042495036_5233674094083309568_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline !important; float: none; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">And the entire bottom hem could be reused, so it was a really fast project. And since the dress was well used, the gown now has parts that are bleached by the sun, making for a cool worn look in the new gown. And as I now definetly was out of fabric, I allowed myself to buy more during Medeltidsveckan, when there is a huge market with lots of vendors present. So for next year the gown will be supplemented with a new doublet and a pair of joined hose. </span>Annahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6775240648800748970.post-89417877791748769142019-01-10T10:24:00.000-08:002019-01-10T10:28:45.141-08:00My books are now available in english Some time ago I told you about the books on late 15th Century clothing that I have co-authored:<br />
<a href="https://renikasanachronisticadventures.blogspot.com/2018/02/the-late-15th-century-is-new-black.html" target="_blank">https://renikasanachronisticadventures.blogspot.com/2018/02/the-late-15th-century-is-new-black.html</a><br />
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Good news for those of you that are not thet versed in Swedish: they are now available in English as well! You will find them on Amazon for instance.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Historical-Clothing-Inside-Out-Century/dp/9198105639/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1547144168&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=anna+malmborg+and+willhelm+sch%C3%BCtz" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.com/Historical-Clothing-Inside-Out-Century/dp/9198105639/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1547144168&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=anna+malmborg+and+willhelm+sch%C3%BCtz</a><br />
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Or if you are going to the same event as me, ask me to bring copies if you would like one.<br />
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<br />Annahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6775240648800748970.post-90962137884215921692018-06-17T08:48:00.000-07:002018-06-17T08:48:33.530-07:00Bright colours for bright summer days<div>
As summer events are approaching one yearns for more colour and light materials. And as my friend Johanna at https://www.facebook.com/evajohanna.arts.crafts/ just showed her circlet made of Bright coloured string covering a metal band I finally got the inspiration for making that multicoloured gefrens I have had plans for for quite some time. I even ordered different colours of silk in order to make one.</div>
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What is a gefrens then? Well it is a small fringelike accessory covering the back of the neck, and is mostly depicted in late 15th Century german art. It comes in many different colours and shapes, there are even those in metal. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit9048fG_3dn8R8Q3L0t8MQOVrKGRN61Qilmdcylgkw6NEnbTIR1XUgDAnlNgjCG37DAhq3zAAi7wFyzo_4lrFAZhlZMyMiH8nmtBx6R8PTQUBwQgNNExia80MJ_85qdv4uK-XcRS3Uxc/s1600/Sl%25C3%25A4t+gr%25C3%25B6n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="571" data-original-width="570" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit9048fG_3dn8R8Q3L0t8MQOVrKGRN61Qilmdcylgkw6NEnbTIR1XUgDAnlNgjCG37DAhq3zAAi7wFyzo_4lrFAZhlZMyMiH8nmtBx6R8PTQUBwQgNNExia80MJ_85qdv4uK-XcRS3Uxc/s320/Sl%25C3%25A4t+gr%25C3%25B6n.jpg" width="319" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRqserSxnFr2pJrcwD0bxXFwZK-WLS4a2XeAAqeFAp4SHntFZWPX1uRPaH-OdCA-uB3IGzFTMf7rRAumyrXrzv26bNkNBUfDsaYODdrGjfwTUqptVO3KT4cAmqtW2xLLRaDMSTTVCNxHA/s1600/Multicoloured.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRqserSxnFr2pJrcwD0bxXFwZK-WLS4a2XeAAqeFAp4SHntFZWPX1uRPaH-OdCA-uB3IGzFTMf7rRAumyrXrzv26bNkNBUfDsaYODdrGjfwTUqptVO3KT4cAmqtW2xLLRaDMSTTVCNxHA/s320/Multicoloured.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These ones are my main inspiration, clearly thin stripes of different colours, not just three large blocks of colour.</td></tr>
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It is often seen used just as it is, over the braided hair, but it is also seen in combination with other headwear such as vulsthaube and steuchlein.</div>
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For my new gefrens, I started with a silk lucet cord and then measured and cut the strands in green, yellow and red.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDLSoviQ-9y1gchC1jIevLlxkyklPS9xyF-ekAoNXnQ9wU7KWBy3sTtJEVff00V5j3B4pg7sgeM0EFURRaGVsukhzzfnUzMhJBHtArWVXb1GDQDbju5hfsdvGzpQzRFSpJisqDf84W464/s1600/Strings+and+strands.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="774" data-original-width="774" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDLSoviQ-9y1gchC1jIevLlxkyklPS9xyF-ekAoNXnQ9wU7KWBy3sTtJEVff00V5j3B4pg7sgeM0EFURRaGVsukhzzfnUzMhJBHtArWVXb1GDQDbju5hfsdvGzpQzRFSpJisqDf84W464/s320/Strings+and+strands.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My silks are a thick lush one from Devere yarns</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd_ezrNhmCObJNY9R4YVUuJT7hBsYv7Chbm0AV2rzLvMpDIBRqC02xKT8EsmqJK_yuFfhFJ6dE1kwXLTaFJO7NTA9MzVlR4RNtTIcDlqJzpJVRTpriqwL_ibAjcPTdZMzsQlelPZrMNfc/s1600/Measure+and+cut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="774" data-original-width="774" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd_ezrNhmCObJNY9R4YVUuJT7hBsYv7Chbm0AV2rzLvMpDIBRqC02xKT8EsmqJK_yuFfhFJ6dE1kwXLTaFJO7NTA9MzVlR4RNtTIcDlqJzpJVRTpriqwL_ibAjcPTdZMzsQlelPZrMNfc/s320/Measure+and+cut.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Don´t complicate things, use whatever comes handy!</td></tr>
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I measured twelve strands for every stripe, and then tied them onto the lucet cord in threes.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXHLpLpaM4KjJY9H8aky7HTrcOUf2mhdRdWTDgb4NJgwoqMRl0iPmD85brgsgbzUtkrtGLqQJvGLa2x53qJk6EKuDkce-C1JkJpeKVFjSfnM3jPbn98NUOO7agQcto-32fgF4_3kzynog/s1600/Tying+the+knot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="774" data-original-width="774" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXHLpLpaM4KjJY9H8aky7HTrcOUf2mhdRdWTDgb4NJgwoqMRl0iPmD85brgsgbzUtkrtGLqQJvGLa2x53qJk6EKuDkce-C1JkJpeKVFjSfnM3jPbn98NUOO7agQcto-32fgF4_3kzynog/s320/Tying+the+knot.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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A simple and fast little project finished! And a small and very versatile accessory is ready for use.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh18ZIt2msgq_EwgUzNyvWQLVrn0TTdFXJ3dRUAzV1_7UDVSbMQFP5hgj0q9Hw6JDZw26p8ptxOUjURTQ7akhGW9teEjVDrW37r37WC141SaZJav2-Wp7XdQSsSk7GOvgrKI80a0QDgY48/s1600/Gefrens+done.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="912" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh18ZIt2msgq_EwgUzNyvWQLVrn0TTdFXJ3dRUAzV1_7UDVSbMQFP5hgj0q9Hw6JDZw26p8ptxOUjURTQ7akhGW9teEjVDrW37r37WC141SaZJav2-Wp7XdQSsSk7GOvgrKI80a0QDgY48/s320/Gefrens+done.jpg" width="304" /></a></div>
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And I love how it just naturally makes those waves you see here:</div>
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Annahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6775240648800748970.post-87473185657751303332018-06-17T07:48:00.004-07:002018-06-17T07:48:56.671-07:00A laurel wreath Going to SCA Drachenwald 25 years anniversary and Midsommer Coronation in Bulgaria the upcoming week, I had loose plans on making a new dress. As most people does. But the silk I ordered from the US is still in customs, so no new dress for me. And it is not like I am at the risk of having to go naked, there are plenty of kirtles in this girls closet.<br />
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But I could always use some new headwear. Because I love headwear, it makes such a difference for an oufit and with plenty of headwear it is easy to alternate and it packs easy.<br />
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As a newbie Laurel, I do not have much insignia other than my medallions. And sometimes one simply has to bling up a bit. So I decided to make a laurel wreath, similar to one I made for my mistress, Joutsenjärven Sahra, using a brocade band with attached laurel leaves in gilted leather.<br />
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But I could not make a thing without finding some kind of period sources or inspiration for it. So I had a look through my art database and found a number of late 15th Century german depictions of wreaths used by women.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIoTaRyHdvNT7XUn0e3RzblCWYehig3IP7JS6qVZUieyp60YpaRxgXqxjL68Mv9PWiKbU4PTPV8yLbhlVaW4UIzuzjik9o3IvMD1Kzq6Nz-o0YC7dFckmbqfwzgZjRAHie-Ci0NREdajY/s1600/1470+german+wedding.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfTIirVpqstulCQPrQlFwHrjWZzchMORTUEogiMNsMRIbLXzDw9OnUhvmmFr-VyZWTDr5tHOch2pImYjXp5iv2DAlQ-RVAiJfaPgADra_FWbzHxFf3HOiICd5PQhGelzxf4Y5LOxtF9zs/s1600/b93cf1fa75652cee12346fe5ea60da1b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="807" data-original-width="503" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfTIirVpqstulCQPrQlFwHrjWZzchMORTUEogiMNsMRIbLXzDw9OnUhvmmFr-VyZWTDr5tHOch2pImYjXp5iv2DAlQ-RVAiJfaPgADra_FWbzHxFf3HOiICd5PQhGelzxf4Y5LOxtF9zs/s200/b93cf1fa75652cee12346fe5ea60da1b.jpg" width="124" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIoTaRyHdvNT7XUn0e3RzblCWYehig3IP7JS6qVZUieyp60YpaRxgXqxjL68Mv9PWiKbU4PTPV8yLbhlVaW4UIzuzjik9o3IvMD1Kzq6Nz-o0YC7dFckmbqfwzgZjRAHie-Ci0NREdajY/s1600/1470+german+wedding.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="599" data-original-width="350" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIoTaRyHdvNT7XUn0e3RzblCWYehig3IP7JS6qVZUieyp60YpaRxgXqxjL68Mv9PWiKbU4PTPV8yLbhlVaW4UIzuzjik9o3IvMD1Kzq6Nz-o0YC7dFckmbqfwzgZjRAHie-Ci0NREdajY/s200/1470+german+wedding.jpg" width="116" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdyhb5iZ9AO_MseaePOIvOWtARUC-v7uTKSXQ3QoPj2DkTxUS-H6s0fcrH_0KtyPakGexv_yPlj74j5W6Ms3kaPWIkRqwkdrIV3iXS-Cqhhjb-8nEXG7-9Hgnwzp3UWU7puZSe3ZrzyLc/s1600/ebf3667b32010bd5e1fc2841680224b5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="653" data-original-width="564" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdyhb5iZ9AO_MseaePOIvOWtARUC-v7uTKSXQ3QoPj2DkTxUS-H6s0fcrH_0KtyPakGexv_yPlj74j5W6Ms3kaPWIkRqwkdrIV3iXS-Cqhhjb-8nEXG7-9Hgnwzp3UWU7puZSe3ZrzyLc/s200/ebf3667b32010bd5e1fc2841680224b5.jpg" width="172" /></a></div>
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Some seem to be actual flower wreaths but other are to stylised to be simply a flower wreath. And the bride in red in the middle is wearing a small circlet with beads and a central flower of semiprecious stones or the like.<br />
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So with this supporting my idea of making a SCA-anachronistic wreath, I went on to sewing a band in dark red silk brocade and then cutting and attaching leaves of gilted leather to it. I decided to make it open in the back so I can pin it on different headdresses as well as just on top of my braids, as seen in the pictures.<br />
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I sewed the leaves onto the band with silk and left the front uncovered, but then it looked like it needed something. Back to the drawing board! I finally went with a little flower out of glass beads, similar to the one on the bride in her red dress. And in order for the gilted leather leaves not to look to bland, I added some beads inbetween them too, to look like litte berries and brighten things up.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgPlKQHKf-fOGG0Cj6L7Lknu4MZw0g20GVRcbVzyNU5ZoTolEXm6Xuzis26_7A-pjbnM47hLgTQrz_IwVLp9rRSdkds2cbyWgHc6ARYkp4T02dqh0FaA7fvsrTES8kxaTsHBM7b77YDM0/s1600/Laurel+wreath+front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgPlKQHKf-fOGG0Cj6L7Lknu4MZw0g20GVRcbVzyNU5ZoTolEXm6Xuzis26_7A-pjbnM47hLgTQrz_IwVLp9rRSdkds2cbyWgHc6ARYkp4T02dqh0FaA7fvsrTES8kxaTsHBM7b77YDM0/s320/Laurel+wreath+front.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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So now I have a very blingy wreath that also travels easily and can be rolled up and put in a bag without any fear of breakage. And I am looking forward to wearing it!<br />
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<br />Annahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6775240648800748970.post-2006285159236431372018-05-30T13:10:00.000-07:002018-06-02T00:13:04.597-07:00One for working days, one for SundaysA very dear friend wrote to me in horror over discovering holes in her thin woolen veil I gave her some time ago. It had happened in storage, and nothing else in the same box was affected. Hard to tell what caused the holes. But as I have more of that gorgeous thin wool I offered to make her a new veil, but also to make an attempt at mending the holes. I had an idea I wanted to try. So I asked her to send the veil to me.<br />
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As it came I inspected the holes, not that big but many, right in the middle of the veil. I promptly put it in an embroidery hoop to keep the sheer fabric straight and still, and then I drew threads from the leftover fabric intending to use them to make a darning.<br />
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It turned out to be nearly impossible to make it as neat as I wanted too, as the weave is so very thin. I had to turn over two threads a stitch instead of one and it easily turned into wibbly-wobbly lines. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMmoxn1HbFnyIjyrW6fN4Z4dLTY-CBCCMUrMXaBvEu_xrm0YXzVajZz8UQDbmlx9hDFgK_fqn5-PVBAeds-b4Srf8V0DlmZM9yuQjNLb66K8d4mE8EYa2YHYundHYkwSeh2j0YZ3yCyXw/s1600/34047275_10155566694500036_5483079675276165120_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMmoxn1HbFnyIjyrW6fN4Z4dLTY-CBCCMUrMXaBvEu_xrm0YXzVajZz8UQDbmlx9hDFgK_fqn5-PVBAeds-b4Srf8V0DlmZM9yuQjNLb66K8d4mE8EYa2YHYundHYkwSeh2j0YZ3yCyXw/s320/34047275_10155566694500036_5483079675276165120_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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As I darned the holes the darning made tiny crosses on the veil, not entirely undecorative in my meaning but I sure wish they would come out more even than they did here. It got better after a good pressing with a damp cloth between the fabric and the hot iron. All in all, the veil is now mended and can be used as a more everyday veil. And the new one I made for my friend can be for Sunday finery.</div>
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Tomorrow they will be sent back by post to their rightful owner. I hope she will find the darned veil usable again.</div>
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<br />Annahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6775240648800748970.post-40534137097578940922018-05-19T14:37:00.000-07:002018-05-19T14:37:26.181-07:00Heraldic displayI had a dream of making an heraldic inspired dress sleeve, after looking at the so called Schwabian dresses as depicted in the family tree of the Babenberg family. I had found a picture that I wanted to use as a starting point, with minor changes to make it my own. It is a painted tournament shield with a woman in a green dress supporting a painted shield with arms. It is now at the Metropolitan Museum.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZBd9Ikj5PGvi1zvKCvjz9phT1f8kEn8LrQdIDOCvpziR9wXM3rfP2gHybMJyQ2QZqAJYPuHFSevPyWvmX_85SVNC897PG37_zX-8grkx36ptU6QO3qUoYRPF2OpymQuSYIfW_un8VO8g/s1600/Tournament+Shield%252C+ca+1450%252C+Metropolitan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="667" data-original-width="534" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZBd9Ikj5PGvi1zvKCvjz9phT1f8kEn8LrQdIDOCvpziR9wXM3rfP2gHybMJyQ2QZqAJYPuHFSevPyWvmX_85SVNC897PG37_zX-8grkx36ptU6QO3qUoYRPF2OpymQuSYIfW_un8VO8g/s320/Tournament+Shield%252C+ca+1450%252C+Metropolitan.jpg" width="256" /></a></div>
I started with remaking the design to fit an embroidered piece suitable for appliqué. The embroidery is done in silk with split stitch on linen.<br />
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As the embroidery was finished, the scary bit of cutting it down and prepare it for appliqué started.</div>
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Looking at extant examples of appliquéd embroidered pieces, they are often framed with a couched gold thread, like here. So I decided to couch some gold thread to frame my piece as well.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNV4x6YalDP7EejhRYTibPBe30T3Bl-Azw8fUSAYYCPtYZQhiQjVcab9HwuB5yHAeL12nh7XLNEWW1Fv3mNJq1MXqNCFkCjE6GmyZls1PAuX28_5ri0CQ_enwnV_VsB4mSEqRP9On2Uuw/s1600/30727859_10155474399705036_8868389953298497536_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNV4x6YalDP7EejhRYTibPBe30T3Bl-Azw8fUSAYYCPtYZQhiQjVcab9HwuB5yHAeL12nh7XLNEWW1Fv3mNJq1MXqNCFkCjE6GmyZls1PAuX28_5ri0CQ_enwnV_VsB4mSEqRP9On2Uuw/s320/30727859_10155474399705036_8868389953298497536_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPS43pYHV8YH6qPRKvLD4xc8mCvJOANvqCRyo7QDfbsn7xZTqkEcZ9ssW7u3MkxbPWPvAj8fnkp-j28ecZOya8PaV4dALrYm80vF6i0Krmzll3zqcED1MEFkfnuphQoz4Cef46KGWS6ek/s1600/31092111_10155485425695036_1174283263187877888_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1440" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPS43pYHV8YH6qPRKvLD4xc8mCvJOANvqCRyo7QDfbsn7xZTqkEcZ9ssW7u3MkxbPWPvAj8fnkp-j28ecZOya8PaV4dALrYm80vF6i0Krmzll3zqcED1MEFkfnuphQoz4Cef46KGWS6ek/s320/31092111_10155485425695036_1174283263187877888_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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To give the sleeve that extra wow-factor I added spangles, and the effect on the dark blue wool was very satisfying. Like a stary sky above the lady and the shield.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQUzV7dtJMfG357AGhg1jdg8jL40H-JtNTUiyelbXWx-OEG4cFXPpWtz30G95Dw2u95yrRyccj69VmM_P5jb7K-lpqc1OGzv2y39GpRUeEvUKp30hvcEW9uXueS7knVDsNyPYXda8nB2E/s1600/31092117_10155485438275036_4261932237215236096_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="714" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQUzV7dtJMfG357AGhg1jdg8jL40H-JtNTUiyelbXWx-OEG4cFXPpWtz30G95Dw2u95yrRyccj69VmM_P5jb7K-lpqc1OGzv2y39GpRUeEvUKp30hvcEW9uXueS7knVDsNyPYXda8nB2E/s320/31092117_10155485438275036_4261932237215236096_n.jpg" width="238" /></a><u>entury </u></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1JcnkzjeTtJ6a9tVkU_2HnP0Z0Y4seR39JQrW2vjTPimjawI7YzqfnjtyPINDnCzBs-TzRl7KzVNQ52TJMH8senETN5220EWY0ERGUzZUn3qMfIk8WBVYGxxgAI2b6yPItlHlLU7D4Qk/s1600/31120892_10155485527310036_2123432243459260416_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1440" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1JcnkzjeTtJ6a9tVkU_2HnP0Z0Y4seR39JQrW2vjTPimjawI7YzqfnjtyPINDnCzBs-TzRl7KzVNQ52TJMH8senETN5220EWY0ERGUzZUn3qMfIk8WBVYGxxgAI2b6yPItlHlLU7D4Qk/s320/31120892_10155485527310036_2123432243459260416_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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What sources do we have for embroidered sleeves like this then? Well during the late 15th C the display of embroidery seems to be a fashion for both men and women. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw_S256DcumdvUmadFj74s0GrNbdCO_iUdnW_DmAlU9uBy-H1PsE1Oa01pBzGPvi31tdgfFY5XVz-uCiturDV8SMR4To0LQfZuHC_JRiB9K85m7c2xEsSLn3OGb7ER_W2ghbT7pz3Xvls/s1600/Hemma+von+Gurk%252C+Sebald+Bopp%252C+1510.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="599" data-original-width="368" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw_S256DcumdvUmadFj74s0GrNbdCO_iUdnW_DmAlU9uBy-H1PsE1Oa01pBzGPvi31tdgfFY5XVz-uCiturDV8SMR4To0LQfZuHC_JRiB9K85m7c2xEsSLn3OGb7ER_W2ghbT7pz3Xvls/s320/Hemma+von+Gurk%252C+Sebald+Bopp%252C+1510.jpg" width="196" /></a></td></tr>
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The portrait of Hemma von Gurk by Siebald Bopp, around 1510,</div>
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is an amazing example of an embroidered sleeve.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGaVT5Rhv6zr6-L7_f7VzJClxMv6QY-md43cnFrexls7BupOC2utJOlHbtYBG9JNBjR9GKkjDX8tu4jwA4AcGMHRQyU7HkGQm0Ws1tr3fx4Dgv5HRVRp6alByliCuYVE-ciIuUg_kv82g/s1600/Sleeve+with+spangles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGaVT5Rhv6zr6-L7_f7VzJClxMv6QY-md43cnFrexls7BupOC2utJOlHbtYBG9JNBjR9GKkjDX8tu4jwA4AcGMHRQyU7HkGQm0Ws1tr3fx4Dgv5HRVRp6alByliCuYVE-ciIuUg_kv82g/s320/Sleeve+with+spangles.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This man has an embroidered sleeve with spangles.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="431" data-original-width="564" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5AXk5tZe25mze-2g9vv832BYssLqUvMhTsXf9oYT3gyVPytlbH00yPCXKyEYKXseRQntv2fvxF-IXhP7QNKP3XmG4QnZ67oggQVoT7Ydz1G0dPhOpKGlsUwsxxrftWHfn1uLANZHM3KE/s320/Jacob+Fugger+Sibylle+Artzt+by+Thomas+Burgmair+1498.jpg" width="320" /></td></tr>
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The double portrait of Jacob Fugger and his wife Sibylle Artzt </div>
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by Thomas Burgmair around 1498 is another stunning example of an embroidered sleeve.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9AsFzrsFK725RsQIJu88sfNnOLK7mmzb8L-8FCvnk4BndqknMHWLXN8HrflQL16DA-GE9z-ffQwbUrOZTr9L5jQr8HcsOMtNHXbp-qPjKU_xytai15nhFUEjrAPHbpxniVJzRwhYnH9Y/s1600/Nuremberg+1472.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="580" data-original-width="482" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9AsFzrsFK725RsQIJu88sfNnOLK7mmzb8L-8FCvnk4BndqknMHWLXN8HrflQL16DA-GE9z-ffQwbUrOZTr9L5jQr8HcsOMtNHXbp-qPjKU_xytai15nhFUEjrAPHbpxniVJzRwhYnH9Y/s320/Nuremberg+1472.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
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This pcture is where I found the main inspiration for the cut and shape of my dress. </div>
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And one can definetly interpret the golden dots on her sleeve as spangles.</div>
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I wanted a dress with a high neckline and something rather warm, for use on late nights outdoors or really cold events. So I used a really nicely fulled dark blue wool, cut it really simple in four long panels and with a high neckline and a large slit in front so that it will be easy to pull over my head wearing headdresses. The closures are replicas of a late 15th century one, with acorns, alluding to the ones in my arms, and a small oakleaf.</div>
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<br />Annahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6775240648800748970.post-56694514479143462122018-02-01T08:17:00.001-08:002019-01-10T10:13:14.109-08:00The late 15th Century is the new blackThere seems to be a fast growing interest for the late 15th Century, within reenactment and in general among those that enjoy historical fashion. At least that is my experience. Photos from the most awesome 15th Century events does make it more tempting I would guess.<br />
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I have had the immense pleasure of working with a group of very talented people during last year, creating handbooks in late 15th Century fashion. One for men, one for women. The men´s book was published late last year and the women´s book came from the printers this week.<br />
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Both books are heavy on pictures, both art from the 15th Century and photos of recreations, as well as Amazing illustrations that I have no part in creating (I totally suck at drawing).<br />
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Yes, I am very proud over what we together have accomplished. And even though it is all in Swedish the publishers seem intent on having them translated later on.<br />
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Both books are available for orders here:</div>
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<a href="https://www.handelsgillet.se/shop/bocker/handbocker/historisk-drakt-inifran-och-ut-det-sena-1400-talets-kvinnodrakt/?v=f003c44deab6" target="_blank">https://www.handelsgillet.se/shop/bocker/handbocker/historisk-drakt-inifran-och-ut-det-sena-1400-talets-kvinnodrakt/?v=f003c44deab6</a></div>
<br />Annahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6775240648800748970.post-51517855058795028762017-07-31T12:54:00.000-07:002017-07-31T12:54:19.643-07:00The Princess and the PeaThis summer I tried my first hardcore reenactment event for the late 15th Century, and my biggest struggle was to find a proper bedding solution. As the organizers proclaimed that they were not able to provide straw for beds I had to find some kind of mattress that could travel easily in a car and still support my rather old and aching body. So yes, I had to cheat a bit.<br />
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I simply sewed covers for a modern foam mattress in hemp fabric so that it would at least not shine modern that much. And the covers can later on work as a cover for a straw mattress when that opportunity comes. <br />
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I also dreamed of making a pair of the very typical blue checkered pillows that we can see in so very many illuminations, but I haven´t been able to find the right fabric for them. But I did have red-checkered handwoven linen in my stash, originally curtains in my parents-in-laws library. And I did manage to find a few illuminations showing red-checkered pillows. The fabric was just enough for two ordinary sized pillows and I had two nice feather pillows that would do nicely.<br />
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My biggest fear was being cold, so I decided that just woolen blankets wouldn´t do and hence sewed a duvet cover out of unbleached linen table cloths from a charity shop, washed numerous times and hence very smooth. And then a modern fibrefilled duvet. And to top it all I got my handwoven woolen blankets, big, thick and very warm. With just my head sticking out, I decided that my striped woolen cap a la Albrecht Dürer would do nicely as a night cap.<br />
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And yes, I slept like a princess. Never cold even though the nights were very damp and freezing.<br />
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Annahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6775240648800748970.post-85631614165704335632017-07-05T00:15:00.000-07:002017-07-05T00:15:11.623-07:00Amber kirtleI have for quite a while yearned for a very plain kirtle for working, with a higher neckline than I usually do and a wider sleeve so that I can easily get them up and out of the way for cleaning dishes and the like. I gathered a number of images on what I was aiming for and then suddenly I bought The fabric on an impulse early this spring, a thin wool in a twill weave and a lovely amber colour.<br />
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Some of my main inspirations are mainly three paintings. In all of them you can clearly see a front opening, the two latter ones also show a higher neckline and they are also very plain in model, no details like open sleeves, visible decorations or anything. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaAxgPHpFG50v-CgQNknJmcPytfGZ2wvjKo9Wytr_beW1SCxgTahXR1VJV8upJzQTGQUoxyN8Nk2l4QU3BiTSQhQbbw7-vmTc4Eo0-dn7s3UUGPsgeQCj4QIxmVb4SgMzkDIB50NtoJBU/s1600/Orange+kjortel+Paumgartner+altar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="680" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaAxgPHpFG50v-CgQNknJmcPytfGZ2wvjKo9Wytr_beW1SCxgTahXR1VJV8upJzQTGQUoxyN8Nk2l4QU3BiTSQhQbbw7-vmTc4Eo0-dn7s3UUGPsgeQCj4QIxmVb4SgMzkDIB50NtoJBU/s320/Orange+kjortel+Paumgartner+altar.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail from the Paumgartner Altar. The front opening here seems to be slightly bulging, an interesting effect that I tried to accomplish with mine as well.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDXVz4_cShQz0AL-6KmxcCH-xlpWqjHkXJQ-blSuroUc_rvJW2poCbBNfhjxFRqQacR6P5dzK06A1B6GljgV-sLkF5LWKPhyphenhyphenJc0u-q3EGmikY_Tia7Q4LniutE2HhNHQujoicIKFkOik8/s1600/Schottenaltar+Gr%25C3%25B6n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="567" data-original-width="458" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDXVz4_cShQz0AL-6KmxcCH-xlpWqjHkXJQ-blSuroUc_rvJW2poCbBNfhjxFRqQacR6P5dzK06A1B6GljgV-sLkF5LWKPhyphenhyphenJc0u-q3EGmikY_Tia7Q4LniutE2HhNHQujoicIKFkOik8/s320/Schottenaltar+Gr%25C3%25B6n.jpg" width="258" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail from the Schottenaltar</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8KsBf3HY89e314YGXd80cW46iSNFoCOB48OV8SvNYVmX8RMBGV74ccldyo9IKJs9hgI3K-_tSE7fN8PKZ-emN1GX7lNokuNPv822RF-2G6qqrRBRY4mp4VbCpJtHeKKu3WFh1bbkpom8/s1600/D%25C3%25BCrer+vandring.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="705" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8KsBf3HY89e314YGXd80cW46iSNFoCOB48OV8SvNYVmX8RMBGV74ccldyo9IKJs9hgI3K-_tSE7fN8PKZ-emN1GX7lNokuNPv822RF-2G6qqrRBRY4mp4VbCpJtHeKKu3WFh1bbkpom8/s320/D%25C3%25BCrer+vandring.jpg" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
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Lots escape by Albrecht Dürer</div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">My version of this kirtle is not lined other than two small strips of linen along the front opening, to serve as a support for the hooks and eyes. They are placed evenly and with at most two centimetres apart along the front making it a steady fastening. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirryK14S1QwuAzLk5r0eyJ4u1gOJeO_DKL1qlBeF6ErHt4ItQps0pYEdMvGX_J_XzUSysT_2Ste22XKPqn8sMJI4YjJc8xIPtAhpF5gqu_U_YFFN9xNBURZBw406sIE4sQTN0ZnPMqoMc/s1600/Hakar+och+hyskor+italiensk+1487.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="320" data-original-width="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirryK14S1QwuAzLk5r0eyJ4u1gOJeO_DKL1qlBeF6ErHt4ItQps0pYEdMvGX_J_XzUSysT_2Ste22XKPqn8sMJI4YjJc8xIPtAhpF5gqu_U_YFFN9xNBURZBw406sIE4sQTN0ZnPMqoMc/s1600/Hakar+och+hyskor+italiensk+1487.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail showing hook and eye-closing in an Italian painting</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgHrhZ1b5KGZxR_NFsTRM0B_5d_6LlzGcFRE8Cu51sw5rVDaetb5qllW2hh1k3JR1-0yVi5ugnRdsboHfumIti1HE-Kh8lYhi7le79uqJ6H71LX_4ZZYy9pjatcG5kzpDMoSMp9PgzivY/s1600/Kn%25C3%25A4ppning.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="260" data-original-width="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgHrhZ1b5KGZxR_NFsTRM0B_5d_6LlzGcFRE8Cu51sw5rVDaetb5qllW2hh1k3JR1-0yVi5ugnRdsboHfumIti1HE-Kh8lYhi7le79uqJ6H71LX_4ZZYy9pjatcG5kzpDMoSMp9PgzivY/s1600/Kn%25C3%25A4ppning.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
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My version of the closing, I choose a simple inserted piece of lining instead of lining the entire bodice.</div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The skirt is simple and fabricsaving, a twopieced front and a straight back with some small pleats towards the waist. And I made the bodice loose so that I can easily fit an extra kirtle under it should the weather be colder. The sleeves are a simple S-curve with a small inserted gore towards the shoulderseam. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJmbo218btutsUXqK2nV4mS1-DCL-4HjB4UnAua0DvFWe1xALFPN9zK-hxAxh5O7XmlRozQRGsuTNerSi1faMq1UsUwoi22jCA3-a2Fmobht5wmCHEy1HWbH4MBn-UbMkZ8WSUkSd5mp8/s1600/19656983_10154737021295036_883507889290331928_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="502" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJmbo218btutsUXqK2nV4mS1-DCL-4HjB4UnAua0DvFWe1xALFPN9zK-hxAxh5O7XmlRozQRGsuTNerSi1faMq1UsUwoi22jCA3-a2Fmobht5wmCHEy1HWbH4MBn-UbMkZ8WSUkSd5mp8/s320/19656983_10154737021295036_883507889290331928_n.jpg" width="167" /></a></div>
And here is the result. <div>
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<br />Annahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6775240648800748970.post-41792968261619128682017-06-11T03:36:00.000-07:002017-06-11T03:36:10.715-07:00I might need to make a new dress for this shiftAs many may know, I am a huge fan of the art of Nüremberg artist Albrecht Dürer. One of my absolute favourite pieces is his portrait of the Young fürlegerin with her hair in braids. I have looked at this so many times and I still find new details in it. Now I want to look specifically on her shift, or hemd as it is called in German.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqdcM2v3m1MKYqycidnsJgEfJAJB6M-iBnsOHcBpoXBNorTn54KOfS7Q8CCAHF8oDr5_uJIDYLObRgOXtc7FP_ZLRm-g3bT1PV2n5dE-Tg0gDvUGOwzkFGW7IZa3OACQ8oyjgDGXrw-Mk/s1600/Albrecht+D%25C3%25BCrer+the+young+f%25C3%25BCrlegerin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqdcM2v3m1MKYqycidnsJgEfJAJB6M-iBnsOHcBpoXBNorTn54KOfS7Q8CCAHF8oDr5_uJIDYLObRgOXtc7FP_ZLRm-g3bT1PV2n5dE-Tg0gDvUGOwzkFGW7IZa3OACQ8oyjgDGXrw-Mk/s320/Albrecht+D%25C3%25BCrer+the+young+f%25C3%25BCrlegerin.jpg" width="245" /></a></div>
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It is a lovely hemd, with an embroidered smocked front and black lining along the neckline. But as one looks at many different portraits and paintings from the same time and region, I noticed something about that neckline. The back seems to be drawn down towards the front so that the back neckline also covers the entire shoulder. I will try and illustrate what I mean with some more pictures.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3aVgNhDWz8qiQwbdCb2RY0kg1HW3iiPbkzX2-n8EQg2fnH-bgv9XLe48fsgyurK067WQ0m0Yv8wYED4LmvYqanRGRe6tUtyQDkEeQB9OupSyvt3WLhosmT_bd4vaE_OmWgjrsPJRTwcw/s1600/Wolf+Traut+portrait+of+a+woman.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="301" data-original-width="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3aVgNhDWz8qiQwbdCb2RY0kg1HW3iiPbkzX2-n8EQg2fnH-bgv9XLe48fsgyurK067WQ0m0Yv8wYED4LmvYqanRGRe6tUtyQDkEeQB9OupSyvt3WLhosmT_bd4vaE_OmWgjrsPJRTwcw/s1600/Wolf+Traut+portrait+of+a+woman.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wolf Traut, Portrait of a woman, Nüremberg 1510</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTJErHJQt9PcemDtL-e6dmlcU32PsASwcLBvGxA59OqmABxlIQfal8jkvg5GUkY9vZpy4-j1uD5fYUcxEnuHbDtpg3bkdR9e1GPCL60Jn99S5sjlnw_VuQGtj_6JQMghljjOVlZ3OPTgs/s1600/Hans+Holbein+the+younger%252C+portrait.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="787" data-original-width="516" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTJErHJQt9PcemDtL-e6dmlcU32PsASwcLBvGxA59OqmABxlIQfal8jkvg5GUkY9vZpy4-j1uD5fYUcxEnuHbDtpg3bkdR9e1GPCL60Jn99S5sjlnw_VuQGtj_6JQMghljjOVlZ3OPTgs/s320/Hans+Holbein+the+younger%252C+portrait.jpg" width="209" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hans Holbein the Younger, Portrait of a woman</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwgD1jrQIoEQXkq5WjnieJwDWVJJUzLWEVHKRV8FHLRnOJrcrNej-LU-70hUVszrdFseZ_fLZ5VAsjHHaL3CueB6zU8fwqa5JFSfe2dLCwo2AmmqCMOqKvtE_l96z3tIuyoieyaIZiYtM/s1600/No+black+lining.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="846" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwgD1jrQIoEQXkq5WjnieJwDWVJJUzLWEVHKRV8FHLRnOJrcrNej-LU-70hUVszrdFseZ_fLZ5VAsjHHaL3CueB6zU8fwqa5JFSfe2dLCwo2AmmqCMOqKvtE_l96z3tIuyoieyaIZiYtM/s320/No+black+lining.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of a painting, showing the Young woman in green in a similar hemd</td></tr>
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The back seems to be a rounded line, not indicating a seam or anything other than over the front shoulder where it meets the front.</div>
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I found this a bit intriguing so I had to experiment a bit with a simple version af a hemd, where the back is wider than the front, thus curving down over the shoulder and forming that seamless line down the front.</div>
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So my version is a plain shift in two pieces, two sidegores and sleeves and in order to clearly illustrate the slanted backpiece/shoulder, I put in a small lining of the neckline in black silk. Here it is:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmtIlCOINzPfFI3Vzd5S7dVeWRaxdKbMc3jcOngUh93sSg8B_HxzvWYzlUskXmsgjCEtBgD8vPOW0zQ-Bt3KyAcpHmGO0gu0mf_Xlvg6wyHU6qCLfEpsU-R_VdTVgVsyOqkUyS5PXMlso/s1600/Detalj.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="528" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmtIlCOINzPfFI3Vzd5S7dVeWRaxdKbMc3jcOngUh93sSg8B_HxzvWYzlUskXmsgjCEtBgD8vPOW0zQ-Bt3KyAcpHmGO0gu0mf_Xlvg6wyHU6qCLfEpsU-R_VdTVgVsyOqkUyS5PXMlso/s320/Detalj.jpg" width="176" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The shoulder part hanging down in the front</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho_LjEcPu5QAKFJhYv9FL_GQJaw_Awm30jhCtkMRmriyOX3kRcINPBIY1tSHy7YYCDuuce7RdbmEbN8E70k0uLD9vgiRi2B9PFNOd2CXDQukEThg_9RcO8fz2wku9P9p5PVjXSR57HQOc/s1600/Hela+p%25C3%25A5+galge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="528" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho_LjEcPu5QAKFJhYv9FL_GQJaw_Awm30jhCtkMRmriyOX3kRcINPBIY1tSHy7YYCDuuce7RdbmEbN8E70k0uLD9vgiRi2B9PFNOd2CXDQukEThg_9RcO8fz2wku9P9p5PVjXSR57HQOc/s320/Hela+p%25C3%25A5+galge.jpg" width="176" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The hemd when done</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLMQZ6t6H4IZgkwop_cFtjNAy7VvLhrxiJvzk-hLFxe_QmDp5yDxoDIs9Gih9p1NVsObCCsz2x0za6Tp48q0qL-0dL75342fDjrG5zr-t5VkwYyK5V3NIfVEKi2mWHNJcRgqPaO3L-AZw/s1600/P%25C3%25A5+mig.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1086" data-original-width="1440" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLMQZ6t6H4IZgkwop_cFtjNAy7VvLhrxiJvzk-hLFxe_QmDp5yDxoDIs9Gih9p1NVsObCCsz2x0za6Tp48q0qL-0dL75342fDjrG5zr-t5VkwYyK5V3NIfVEKi2mWHNJcRgqPaO3L-AZw/s320/P%25C3%25A5+mig.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwbTEgM9Q-F7MHvrkrMi908mKkDsAYRVrzbgDg4qL6TcXQ3d0XGEI4-musKqZTQAgk-fpOulKYstvL5HufrFlhFEXUp47KkzS4_5a0R0IhOsrYWhhWRiBa3mPiXAA1ShkbiTTRUx7-xvM/s1600/P%25C3%25A5+mig+%25C3%25A4rm+och+sidkil.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1141" data-original-width="1440" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwbTEgM9Q-F7MHvrkrMi908mKkDsAYRVrzbgDg4qL6TcXQ3d0XGEI4-musKqZTQAgk-fpOulKYstvL5HufrFlhFEXUp47KkzS4_5a0R0IhOsrYWhhWRiBa3mPiXAA1ShkbiTTRUx7-xvM/s320/P%25C3%25A5+mig+%25C3%25A4rm+och+sidkil.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Construction with sidegore sewn directly to the sleeve</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjSOKRbRwbNcG8lc5-oCGgPro-8_gSaVn0_HRHDwLI1EajMy4yOXPLXIJxK0xLoA1Bm-FedcJHuZxkRHcBAry5UBbsikbvcR11FVklSR3NZqL-4IwvqbWyakH5Tt_s_nRfOkKxiVSwkWk/s1600/Med+bl%25C3%25A5+hausbook.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1175" data-original-width="1440" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjSOKRbRwbNcG8lc5-oCGgPro-8_gSaVn0_HRHDwLI1EajMy4yOXPLXIJxK0xLoA1Bm-FedcJHuZxkRHcBAry5UBbsikbvcR11FVklSR3NZqL-4IwvqbWyakH5Tt_s_nRfOkKxiVSwkWk/s320/Med+bl%25C3%25A5+hausbook.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Worn with my blue Hausbook dress over it</td></tr>
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And clearly I have nothing to wear on top of it, since all my dresses are fairly high in the neck and doesn´t show anything of the shoulders.</div>
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<br />Annahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6775240648800748970.post-35989442639417495662017-01-15T12:22:00.000-08:002017-01-15T12:22:37.350-08:00Going down the famous rabbit holeAs active within the SCA you choose a persona and a name to use within the society. I changed my name somewhat some years ago as I had trouble documenting the name I formerly used and I also strived for something more fitting for my favourite period and region. Hence the Tucher as my surname. It was easily documented and it tied me to some of my favourite female portraits from late 15th Century Nuremberg, the ones of Felicitas and Elisabeth Tucher, both painted by Albrecht Dürer during the final decades of the 15th Century.<br />
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When you base your persona on such a wellknown family as the Tuchers of Nuremberg (you could compare them to the Medicis from Italy durong the same timespan) the possibilities on persona-related research are endless. As I visited Nuremberg for the first time my friends took me to see Tucher Schloss, one of many homes of the Tucher family, and there I bought a book on the family, its history, connections, impact on the arts, their trade routes, yes a lot of things to geek over.<br />
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And as I was preparing for my elevation to the Order of the Laurel my friend Elsa gave me a unique gift, that of trying to find out more about the family through the family archives still preserved in Nuremberg. This is now an ongoing project and I am soo looking forward to see the results.<br />
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But in the meantime I can do some research on my own, based on some of the many family portraits and the Family tree and other facts in the book. The Tucher family were huge patrons of the arts and commisioned portraits as well as more official art for churches. And as far as persona research goes, following the routes of their buisness is a potential goldmine.<br />
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Focusing on Felicitas and Elisabeth, married to two brothers in the younger family line of the Tuchers, and their mother in law, Ursula Tucher, here are some facts.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYKRz1-jnEQWBxsbBkpYJWWrbgMqdzpSkR4cGFaGl0LKR2ZYW0R_HazVZYryzjrmk2hdzy83XKqWs9dPZ9_KIl3EuLz1OGKjMJVUIBZIzOEWHkim4lSZ8oyGUixwJHeYNp7660NAH1Z9M/s1600/FB_IMG_1484490012149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYKRz1-jnEQWBxsbBkpYJWWrbgMqdzpSkR4cGFaGl0LKR2ZYW0R_HazVZYryzjrmk2hdzy83XKqWs9dPZ9_KIl3EuLz1OGKjMJVUIBZIzOEWHkim4lSZ8oyGUixwJHeYNp7660NAH1Z9M/s320/FB_IMG_1484490012149.jpg" width="237" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ursula Tucher, second wife of Hans VI Tucher. Portrait by Michael Wolgemut.</td></tr>
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Hans VI Tucher married his second wife, Ursula Harsdörffer, in 1481. His eldest son, Hans XI, married Felicitas Rieter the year after, 1482. His brother Nikolaus II married Elisabeth Pusch in 1491. The portrait of Ursula was painted in 1481 and it is a double portrait with her husband to be, Hans, holding the ring.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7cW9JEK1QAS32soG-Q0MDAmhbzjDuZu49cJol1HnB0iMj4yiUnOe_zIEQ-M8QQ6IfNc0RVouc_xBrs1-9oJgecpYs7lOqf4D7cZEjMJADOk1R46Hvd6YdhAfofyI9KHsrBbee-v2N5Cw/s1600/FB_IMG_1484489997830.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7cW9JEK1QAS32soG-Q0MDAmhbzjDuZu49cJol1HnB0iMj4yiUnOe_zIEQ-M8QQ6IfNc0RVouc_xBrs1-9oJgecpYs7lOqf4D7cZEjMJADOk1R46Hvd6YdhAfofyI9KHsrBbee-v2N5Cw/s320/FB_IMG_1484489997830.jpg" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Felicitas Tucher, portrayed by Albrecht Dürer</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE1PjYiLMykxe5P7dPWLKhBL2fiXWsuKCsLSys36luuNCSSVQlkdUN9NsDjszaJr0AP2GE1co6UXUw_WOILlR4FCcuqVVJV00T4-JD0fZDGjeJ6tDXAbVVlxaVABnTxQ3c3QTRgSI9OAk/s1600/FB_IMG_1484489989295.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE1PjYiLMykxe5P7dPWLKhBL2fiXWsuKCsLSys36luuNCSSVQlkdUN9NsDjszaJr0AP2GE1co6UXUw_WOILlR4FCcuqVVJV00T4-JD0fZDGjeJ6tDXAbVVlxaVABnTxQ3c3QTRgSI9OAk/s320/FB_IMG_1484489989295.jpg" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elisabeth Tucher, portrayed by Albrect Dürer</td></tr>
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The portraits of the daughter in laws are clearly painted about a decade later, most likely around 1491 when Elisabeth was married to Nikolaus. Notice the ring in her hand? These two later portraits were painted by Albrecht Dürer, who was an apprentice of Michael Wolgemut who painted Ursulas portrait. Both of them lived and worked in Nürnberg and they were among the most famous artists who got commisions from the Tucher family. Dürers portraits definetly shows some influence from the italian art that he studies on his travels.<br />
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The portraits of Felicitas and Elisabeth show them wearing similar dresses with gesperrketchen. I have been wondering about the letters in the ketchen, HT in Felicitas portrait and NT in Elisabeths portrait. And as I looked into the Family tree this morning, finding them and their husbands there, it was suddenly clear. It is the initials of their husbands. Strange for our modern minds perhaps, marking your wife like that.<br />
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One has to wonder how life was for these three women, most likely living together. Living in one of the richest families and meeting with some of the finest artists of their time. Felicitas married into the family just one year after her mother-in-law, were they friends as they most likely were of similar age?</div>
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To be continued...<br />
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Annahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6775240648800748970.post-66981694309302214112017-01-15T05:54:00.001-08:002017-01-15T05:54:58.037-08:00Socks for the ladies<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
When reenacting 15th century you tend to just make knee-high hose if you are a lady and long for something less warm during those hot summer events. And then came the short sock in linen, usually referred to as the Tross-frau sock. Whilja has the most thourough description of it here:</div>
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<a href="https://whiljascorner.wordpress.com/2016/06/22/the-trossfrau-sock-ii/" target="_blank">https://whiljascorner.wordpress.com/2016/06/22/the-trossfrau-sock-ii/</a></div>
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Well I could not possibly use that now, it seems to be later period? Imagine my happiness when I stumbled over these ladies feet. Look closely and you'll see that they are wearing what definetly looks like short white socks. Possibly with a black edge and a slit in the side. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_XvNz4A0hnFXu-Z-cG2AoIc49xtHfUY31z-vciZCJqe2vr1w6Tjl8u4s4Ab35xGUJQufjAY9zp05lQ3cFIo30_5F9IZO7wSM-McYqtI9UUCIKfPCaxz7NTrvjK4C0-SkNcYiMyVfsehs/s1600/b01975f33b9d56cd9647d843a58f8a19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="219" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_XvNz4A0hnFXu-Z-cG2AoIc49xtHfUY31z-vciZCJqe2vr1w6Tjl8u4s4Ab35xGUJQufjAY9zp05lQ3cFIo30_5F9IZO7wSM-McYqtI9UUCIKfPCaxz7NTrvjK4C0-SkNcYiMyVfsehs/s320/b01975f33b9d56cd9647d843a58f8a19.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Konzil von Konstanz Prozession, Wien Austria Nationalbibliothek Cod 3044, fol 44r</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieSyZMAB4ZWS0YXUBHlkgiTjpzddsVhz7cllE6HyCzRoF6VVnwaJGGj0qIZJkMhMLdfsGGVEdzsszDiARu1zH0tVB_mbRg4h6FEnwPAo1W384ezlCAoNXME9wee2EELlgFVDFEQehLSvc/s1600/0656732ac7d21f694343cb806a71d40a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieSyZMAB4ZWS0YXUBHlkgiTjpzddsVhz7cllE6HyCzRoF6VVnwaJGGj0qIZJkMhMLdfsGGVEdzsszDiARu1zH0tVB_mbRg4h6FEnwPAo1W384ezlCAoNXME9wee2EELlgFVDFEQehLSvc/s320/0656732ac7d21f694343cb806a71d40a.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Konzil von Konstanz Procession, Wien Austria Nationalbibliothek, cod 3044, fol 45r</td></tr>
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I have looked at the different interpretations of the so-called Trossfrau sock, many based on the german extant one in linen exhibited in the Altes Rathaus in Regensburg and found that most see it as a 16th Century phenomenon. My first thought was that this must be what these ladies are wearing. But the cut does not look the same at all.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid1kr8xomz1M7RnSCbUvhTfkPgZa9I5E1wZ54_ernlQYZNaTWjx511Dcc2RqEcLCCaLNUcLiHawJVpuawQT1iAQAeJeb6IaDeH3pGzeoKdHuz_hzhEZH47e0aEvQbLxUr8wT7rk__7pg4/s1600/e1a3073e8117ea78b683f8b1491962e8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid1kr8xomz1M7RnSCbUvhTfkPgZa9I5E1wZ54_ernlQYZNaTWjx511Dcc2RqEcLCCaLNUcLiHawJVpuawQT1iAQAeJeb6IaDeH3pGzeoKdHuz_hzhEZH47e0aEvQbLxUr8wT7rk__7pg4/s320/e1a3073e8117ea78b683f8b1491962e8.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Linen sock in Regensburg, photo by Elsa Hahma<br />
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And then I remembered the naalbound sock from Uppsala, with a slit and a black edge. Doesn't this look exactly like what these ladies are wearing? And it is shaped to follow the shape of the common sidelaced 15th Century shoes. So I guess I will have to order some new footwear for the summer. Even though it's not a linen sock a short sock is still by far less warm to wear during hot summer days than kneehigh hose.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7jvt3BY2ySq4wY_l6-1g3Y4H1D-EKqNZiUsiSw6swnGg79PPC5vB044MVq3QzpF7H8bbBLHWCURukl42M7ffBeJBX_HoHAAvvjQru_JlZGRjqxaRaDzcwwxlMms6ywSOICKRYyZ62yqw/s1600/974db73c8e80e04190d8a9b20ac50985.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7jvt3BY2ySq4wY_l6-1g3Y4H1D-EKqNZiUsiSw6swnGg79PPC5vB044MVq3QzpF7H8bbBLHWCURukl42M7ffBeJBX_HoHAAvvjQru_JlZGRjqxaRaDzcwwxlMms6ywSOICKRYyZ62yqw/s320/974db73c8e80e04190d8a9b20ac50985.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Naalbound sock from Uppsala, possibly late 15th Century</td></tr>
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Annahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6775240648800748970.post-7454709297382154552016-04-12T13:46:00.000-07:002016-04-12T13:46:19.815-07:00The late German 15th century woman´s headwear, a plunge into pleats, vulsts, strange veils and vimples<div class="MsoBodyText">
This will be a long and rambeling blogpost since it mainly consists of a research paper entered in the Kingdom Arts and Science competition held at Drachenwalds Spring Crown Tourney of this year. I have edited it a bit after going through my judge´s very thorough comments. So take a deep breath before you take the plunge...</div>
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<i><span style="background: rgb(249, 249, 249); font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 8.5pt;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portrait_Diptych_of_D%C3%BCrer%27s_Parents" title="Portrait Diptych of Dürer's Parents"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #0b0080; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">Portrait of
Barbara Dürer, née Holper</span></a></span></i><span lang="EN-GB" style="background: rgb(249, 249, 249); font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 8.5pt;">, attributed to Albrecht Dürer, c 1490 when
she would have been around 39. Oil on oak panel, 47 cm x 36 cm.<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Germanisches_Nationalmuseum" title="Germanisches Nationalmuseum"><span lang="DE" style="background: #F9F9F9; color: #0b0080; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 8.5pt; mso-ansi-language: DE; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">Germanisches Nationalmuseum</span></a><span lang="DE" style="background: rgb(249, 249, 249); font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 8.5pt;">,</span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nuremberg" title="Nuremberg"><span lang="DE" style="background: #F9F9F9; color: #0b0080; font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 8.5pt; mso-ansi-language: DE; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">Nuremberg</span></a><span lang="DE" style="background: rgb(249, 249, 249); font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 8.5pt;">.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: #f9f9f9;">As I have dabbled with late 15</span><sup>th</sup><span style="background-color: #f9f9f9;">
century german garb for some years now and having a keen interest in all forms
of headwear, the stranger the better, I have come to the conclusion that the
simple square linen veil with pleats in one end, really doesn´t seem as
accurate. I have done them as well as many others that have studied the period
art. Looking at pictures like Albrecht Dürer´s portrait of Barbara Dürer above,
it clearly shows that it cannot be a simple square veil with sewn pleats. It could
surely be something completely different, more like the headgear consisting of
an evolved hood, worn with the facing against the forehead and the liripipe
reformed to make a vimple. Or is it simply a long veil, wrapped around the
head, thus creating the pleats over the forehead and then simply folded in the
middle in the loose hanging part? And that part can also be used as a wrap over
the chin, pinned in the back of the neck. There might be different ways in
creating similar but somewhat differing looks (differing in details as the
shape of the vimple, the use of pleats over the forehead or not, with or
without the bulging Vulst in the back…)</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="background: rgb(249, 249, 249);">Here comes a short dictionary of
terms in German that I will use:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="background: rgb(249, 249, 249);">The Vächer, the pleated part over
the forehead, comes in many variations. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="background: rgb(249, 249, 249);">The Vulsthaube is the headdress
with a bulge creating height and width, in the like of a mushroom.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="background: rgb(249, 249, 249);">The Steuchlien is the veil covering
the head, a name mostly used in Nürnberg for the Vulsthaube<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="background: rgb(249, 249, 249);">Schleier – the veil covering the
head, an earlier headdress than the haube<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="background: rgb(249, 249, 249);">The Gefrens, the fringe of
string/yarn hanging in the neck<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="background: rgb(249, 249, 249);">My main focus of interest in this
article is the more simple styles of veils, with or without Vächer, mostly
called schleier in German, thus differing them from Haubes, that is easier to
wear, since it consists of a cap of some sort (there are many many different
Haubes). I will show some examples where a Vulst seems to be used underneath
for comparison. It ranges over the last two decades of the 15<sup>th</sup> c
and into the first decade of the 16<sup>th</sup> c. My aim is to discuss
different versions of this headdress, try some of my theories on possible ways
to make them and, if possible, see if there is a clear line of evolution over time.
I will try to discuss materials as well and the main source I will use is
period artwork.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="background: rgb(249, 249, 249);">Some background info, mainly taken
from the book “Textiler Hausrat – Kleidung und Haustextilien in Nürnberg von
1500-1650” by J</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="background: rgb(247, 247, 247);">utta Zander-Seidel,
will also be used since she discusses the written sources, mainly wills and
dress regulations. It states for instance that the Schleier were worn long into
the 16<sup>th</sup> C, but being out of fashion only by modest married women
and in more rural areas, were the aim to keep up with high fashion was not that
important</span><a href="file:///C:/Users/Anna/Documents/1400-tal/Tyskt%2014/V%C3%A4cher/Research%20paper%20on%20V%C3%A4cher.doc#_ftn1" name="_ftnref1" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="background: rgb(247, 247, 247);"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt;">[1]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></span></a><span lang="EN-GB" style="background: rgb(247, 247, 247);">. Even if her time range is later than mine, the
terminology and the sources are of great value for this article as well.<span style="color: #3e454c;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="background: rgb(247, 247, 247);"><br /></span></div>
<h3>
<span lang="EN-GB" style="background: #F7F7F7; color: #3e454c; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-size: 8.5pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="background-color: #f7f7f7;">Schleier
with Vächer in the artwork</span></h3>
<span style="background-color: #f9f9f9;">The early examples in period art
seem to be rather flat, without the Vulst or with just the wearers own braids
used to fill out the veil.</span><br />
<div class="MsoBodyText2">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText2">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">This
is an early depiction, showing simple wrapped layers of what looks like a long
rectangular veil with a golden-yellow frilled edge.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrpZbBdURNZkKEYrgncT00wcU7By1R5d9hWQg2S9T96QMlNEVTlPXLg-XLeS0p8l_7nVZ4XgwEuYpkd_bYOFM9VOTV9PSCw5XjTLP0scrBYK7qn9v1WVa-1lkHJ36y7g1rh2bzHST41x0/s1600/guldkant.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrpZbBdURNZkKEYrgncT00wcU7By1R5d9hWQg2S9T96QMlNEVTlPXLg-XLeS0p8l_7nVZ4XgwEuYpkd_bYOFM9VOTV9PSCw5XjTLP0scrBYK7qn9v1WVa-1lkHJ36y7g1rh2bzHST41x0/s320/guldkant.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span lang="DE" style="background: white; color: #171717; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: DE; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.5pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: SV;">Begegnung an der goldenen Pforte 1438-1440</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoBodyText2">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText2">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">Here
is a good example of a very simple and plain one, giving me a lot of
information on the possible ways to create this. It stands clear to me that it
is a simple veil in one piece, wrapped one time around the head and then left
to hang down over the shoulder.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText2">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;"></span><br /><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText2">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmq5ph-_fjfpt-mWiLObTbtbc8z1ephthc0eOxHUuAgg7xyAVjt3R2jI0w0yKC1WjqoNzi5kuwDzEa8kMgv5JpQazy2VtzKpZmdqs6ow7t4guxPjkrJceO7hjUudfA3YJlBDZHIPhmtNo/s1600/plain.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmq5ph-_fjfpt-mWiLObTbtbc8z1ephthc0eOxHUuAgg7xyAVjt3R2jI0w0yKC1WjqoNzi5kuwDzEa8kMgv5JpQazy2VtzKpZmdqs6ow7t4guxPjkrJceO7hjUudfA3YJlBDZHIPhmtNo/s320/plain.jpg" width="170" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span lang="DE" style="background: white; color: #171717; font-size: 8pt; text-align: start;">Oberrheinischer Meister: Die Geburt Mariens. </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="background: white; color: #171717; font-size: 8pt; text-align: start;">1460/65</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
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<h3>
<span lang="EN-GB" style="background: white; color: #171717; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.5pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span>The construction of Vächer</h3>
<h1>
<o:p></o:p></h1>
<div class="MsoBodyText2">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">Looking
closer on the pleats it seems that it, in some of the more elaborate cases at
least, might not be sewn as a part of the veil at all but made as a separate
piece. This makes it possible to reuse the pleated piece and changing the veil.
Looking closely at the portrait of Barbara Dürer one can make out some kind of
decoration pinning just over the pleated part, suggesting it being pinned or
stitched together thus making it into two separate pieces, or a way to hold the
wrapped layers together. In Textiler Hausrat it is stated that the overlapping
pleats/striped layers were named “vach” and held together with punctuating
stitches, clearly shown in period art. And there is a dress regulation stating
that if a woman living in the town wore more than six “vach” she would have to
pay a fine. Even so, there are a number of examples showing up to ten “vach”<a href="file:///C:/Users/Anna/Documents/1400-tal/Tyskt%2014/V%C3%A4cher/Research%20paper%20on%20V%C3%A4cher.doc#_ftn2" name="_ftnref2" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span lang="EN-GB" style="background: rgb(249, 249, 249); color: black; font-size: 12pt;">[2]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a>.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="background: rgb(249, 249, 249);">On that thought, given the amount
of work a pleated and most likely starched frontpiece takes, I would think it
must have been worn over something simpler covering the hair and protecting the
pleated and starched part from getting greasy and worn. I have however not
found anything implying this in Textiler Hausrat. When comparing to the earlier
and more west-oriented fashion of frilled veils, it is clear that the
frontpieces were sewn onto the veil and starched to keep in shape. Isis
Sturtewegen writes in her thesis on frilled veils that the fashion was well spread
across Europe around the later half of the 14<sup>th</sup> C, and after 1460 it
started to disappear as a noble fashion, but still being used by wealthy
townswomen</span><a href="file:///C:/Users/Anna/Documents/1400-tal/Tyskt%2014/V%C3%A4cher/Research%20paper%20on%20V%C3%A4cher.doc#_ftn3" name="_ftnref3" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="background: #F9F9F9; color: black; mso-bidi-font-size: 8.5pt;"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt;">[3]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></span></a><span lang="EN-GB" style="background: rgb(249, 249, 249);">. The evolution of the “vächer” seems to follow the
same pattern. First it is high fashion among the wealthiest and then it is kept
in the fashion by the wealthy burgerclass in the towns, to eventually fade out
of fashion entirely. I will not do the huge work that Isis Sturtewegen did,
comparing iconography of some 200 pictures/statues etc just from the Low
Countries to form a typology and a timeline</span><a href="file:///C:/Users/Anna/Documents/1400-tal/Tyskt%2014/V%C3%A4cher/Research%20paper%20on%20V%C3%A4cher.doc#_ftn4" name="_ftnref4" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="background: #F9F9F9; color: black; mso-bidi-font-size: 8.5pt;"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt;">[4]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></span></a><span lang="EN-GB" style="background: rgb(249, 249, 249);">, but settle for making some iconographic comparisons,
thus forming a theory of types and timeline.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="background: rgb(249, 249, 249);">And from this thought I have given
a lot of thinking into how to best make the pleats, to get that full and a bit
more “built-up” look you see when browsing period artwork. When having done my
early attempts of pleated veils, I tried to not use as much fabric, thus the
single pleats just barely covers the previous one. Now I will have to try to
pleat the forehead-covering piece with pleats that begin big and successfully
decreases in width, thus building on the height just as much as lengthwise. On
this picture it definetly looks like that has been done, and then the pleats
are fastened to the Steuchlien by two parallel rows of stitches.</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="background: rgb(249, 249, 249); font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxV7wHMr1CiSoyBDaAtRmBSvykgQ7q95fVUSyl4n0mVFNGSNjM-nO-sf7cufiaqQcAz34WuFu4Q1LaM4j2NSszvDETiBxxLAS_cbWjlkagFOqVbMZeI-UI_ED_JWOk8XgJHAf946ScGSc/s1600/nurnberg+dancing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxV7wHMr1CiSoyBDaAtRmBSvykgQ7q95fVUSyl4n0mVFNGSNjM-nO-sf7cufiaqQcAz34WuFu4Q1LaM4j2NSszvDETiBxxLAS_cbWjlkagFOqVbMZeI-UI_ED_JWOk8XgJHAf946ScGSc/s320/nurnberg+dancing.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 13.3333px; text-align: start;">Albrecht Dürer, Nürnberg woman dressed for dancing</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span>In this
picture the wimple part is wrapped around the head and thus covering the chin
as well, and the pleats look like they are either pinned or stitched to the
Steuchlien.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil5NhzETA_W2PsQNU-Bx0SOUegwf1X_uW5HtetsV7nRhLC1pSnV3B4ICd0YJcKyCQvoLK7Zf-xfBjhFCCYzi3PhhmxZ5ilbeHhmYg7e-l-Xt7lipjwKkgUUHlEH7RsiO__QJ0gp9vCmvU/s1600/wolfegg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil5NhzETA_W2PsQNU-Bx0SOUegwf1X_uW5HtetsV7nRhLC1pSnV3B4ICd0YJcKyCQvoLK7Zf-xfBjhFCCYzi3PhhmxZ5ilbeHhmYg7e-l-Xt7lipjwKkgUUHlEH7RsiO__QJ0gp9vCmvU/s320/wolfegg.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 10.6667px; text-align: start;">Master of the Housebook of Castle Wolfegg, Last quarter of the 15</span><sup style="text-align: start;">th</sup><span style="font-size: 10.6667px; text-align: start;"> C, showing hair and using the gefrens</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Here you
clearly see a bit of the white Steuchlien hanging down and covering the neck,
on top of the gefrens.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK9qBVvCz9RTqEMunCSdLxxSY_oxkNCQ13venz5Oqm-oe2UZAUhH8VOACkzCpT94z8RqSjEEAXwxfKW8FL4XOlKiFIFYddwxg82S-rJjlSzS1RLmp8hE1fT5YMro9vPLtgsmOqXsoKrME/s1600/housebook+no+gefrens.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK9qBVvCz9RTqEMunCSdLxxSY_oxkNCQ13venz5Oqm-oe2UZAUhH8VOACkzCpT94z8RqSjEEAXwxfKW8FL4XOlKiFIFYddwxg82S-rJjlSzS1RLmp8hE1fT5YMro9vPLtgsmOqXsoKrME/s320/housebook+no+gefrens.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 10.6667px; text-align: start;">Master of the Housebook, Showing hair but without the gefrens</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In this
next portrait of Ursula Tucher the pleats are tiny but building up quite a bit
before the vulst. Looks pinned together, with the little pinheads clearly
visible. This could be a way to simply hold the layers together or indicate a
separate pleated piece over the forehead with a plain veil fastened to it and
then wrapped around the head and chin. The backpart of the Steuchlien is also
partly visible hanging down in the neck.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqMQ0pel9u05D2Q-sZDX_GkWK_47B922n1ISYm9y-SoZyhVh7rScf5DLh0nWx4gPaEAVGF456lct3kXGPAYEZr47NMz0R3vD2t-w5aGAS8zEJRcL2CWok4dT5TOgbKGyTWj7Ffsn7F7y8/s1600/ursula.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqMQ0pel9u05D2Q-sZDX_GkWK_47B922n1ISYm9y-SoZyhVh7rScf5DLh0nWx4gPaEAVGF456lct3kXGPAYEZr47NMz0R3vD2t-w5aGAS8zEJRcL2CWok4dT5TOgbKGyTWj7Ffsn7F7y8/s320/ursula.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #333333; font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: white;">Michael Wolgemut - Portrait of Ursula Tucher, 1478<br /></span></span><div style="text-align: left;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><br /></span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 6px; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><div style="margin: 0px; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Tiny tiny pleats en masse, not likely something you re-do after the wash. Unless it is simply wrapped,but I find it unlikely that one did wrap ten layers or more. The schleier would probably be rather bulky and unflattering, and this is not the case in the depictions of Albrecht Dürer and others. This will be shown in my later experiments.</span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoBodyText3">
In this following picture it looks like
it is wrapped around the head, forming pleats, and then used as chin-wrap and
finally, wrapped up around the head and fastened with some pins. The height and
width looks like it is created with simple wrapped layers and not a vulst. You
can clearly see that the chin-part is folded in the middle and even
pinned/stitched along the edge under the chin. Since it is a common trait with
the fastening stitches, I wonder if that would make the schleier stick together
in the wash. But considering how linen was washed during old times I doubt it.
And on that note, the known materials for schleier, taken from the Nürnberg
testimonies, are linen and cotton<a href="file:///C:/Users/Anna/Documents/1400-tal/Tyskt%2014/V%C3%A4cher/Research%20paper%20on%20V%C3%A4cher.doc#_ftn5" name="_ftnref5" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span lang="EN-GB" style="background: white; color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: SV;">[5]</span></span></span></a>. I
would think they were washed in similar fashion, since both materials can take
heat and beating without suffering from it like a silk or wool would.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHeJzDK4hYiDh94GJZhQLttBdLgs-SmgbHVTS0J3iAXOLtNXG7cl7ZiE-7B3v_6D7U5iuZrmwaCArCZecesb21DIW6_c1tBk-xtzyfi1grIOFCjm2aIle6k2pxDcfAjduT5IXUp0rkxTI/s1600/bavaria.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHeJzDK4hYiDh94GJZhQLttBdLgs-SmgbHVTS0J3iAXOLtNXG7cl7ZiE-7B3v_6D7U5iuZrmwaCArCZecesb21DIW6_c1tBk-xtzyfi1grIOFCjm2aIle6k2pxDcfAjduT5IXUp0rkxTI/s320/bavaria.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="MsoBodyText3" style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;">
<span lang="DE" style="font-size: 8pt;">Schweiz, Maria und Engel der Verkündigung, detail, ca 1470,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText3" style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;">
<span lang="DE" style="font-size: 8pt;">now in the Bavarian National Museum in Muenchen (Photo by Elsa Hahma)</span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoBodyText3">
Here is a rather simple version, clearly wrapped in four
layers over the forehead, then folded double and wrapped around the chin and
head. And it looks rather bulky with just four layers. For science I did cut
and hem a five metre long veil, that would be long enough for it to be wrapped
six times around my head, forming six Vächer, and then enough to form a vimple
hanging over the shoulder or wrapped around the chin. It was rather difficult
to wrap it in front of the mirror, since the amount of fabric being handled, it
tangling around me like a toga and then, when all was on top of the head I
fastened the Vächer with four pins over the forehead. The veil was certainly to
wide, since it bulked up way too much fabric in the back, but I did manage to wrap
it in forming a large bulb in the back. (Note – this headwear is not for
driving. It is very difficult trying to hold your head straight in a car seat,
I had to pull back the back of the seat in order for my now rather large head
to fit in the car without me having to hit my head on the steering wheel.)</div>
<div class="MsoBodyText3">
<span lang="DE"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgosRahjF_YMJc606wdnQSqcq5yNyVKXtmai6k48wRrJ0hYJ8dvDrLeSOmAKPwQLV36_fPVBJftNpgCVIcFdnu31sVyyrk73XMRXX-j1S0SyqE7MjtX_ZltQZ_AdvYBar60zqmr2r5zzhM/s1600/apron.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgosRahjF_YMJc606wdnQSqcq5yNyVKXtmai6k48wRrJ0hYJ8dvDrLeSOmAKPwQLV36_fPVBJftNpgCVIcFdnu31sVyyrk73XMRXX-j1S0SyqE7MjtX_ZltQZ_AdvYBar60zqmr2r5zzhM/s320/apron.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span lang="DE" style="color: #171717; font-size: 8pt; text-align: start;">Zwei Wunder aus der Kindheit des hl. </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #171717; font-size: 8pt; text-align: start;">Nikolaus, Hans Traut Nurnberg, End of 15 C (Photo by Elsa Hahma)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText3">
<span lang="EN-GB"><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape id="_x0000_i1033"
type="#_x0000_t75" alt="Full Apron Zwei Wunder aus der Kindheit des hl. Nikolaus Hans Traut Nurnberg, Ende 15.Jhr BNM-Munich Inv.NR MA 2789"
style='width:230.25pt;height:306.75pt'>
<v:imagedata src="file:///C:\Users\Anna\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image016.jpg"
o:href="http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/95/dc/82/95dc82c9027b49e0cb38a0fb3159e31f.jpg"/>
</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText3">
<span style="color: #171717; font-size: 11pt;">In this picture it looks like a number of layers simply
wrapped around the head and the loose hanging part is folded in the middle.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJBGqeAf7vhxv_jCUGih4PnKT-8lZSP0BZnttzFuntZDNeQtcZxNMtcnMGdPqpRCGblL8Uy2uqGsp6C1C3Vho4ljDorGHd0F8Zz0S_K5WTnCvjkXabqkrV0pwWEorWeVibqgX4iQYA9BA/s1600/hofer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJBGqeAf7vhxv_jCUGih4PnKT-8lZSP0BZnttzFuntZDNeQtcZxNMtcnMGdPqpRCGblL8Uy2uqGsp6C1C3Vho4ljDorGHd0F8Zz0S_K5WTnCvjkXabqkrV0pwWEorWeVibqgX4iQYA9BA/s320/hofer.jpg" width="241" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 13.3333px; text-align: start;">Portrait of a Woman of the Hofer Family, artist unknown, c. 1470</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoBodyText3">
<span style="color: #171717; font-size: 11pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape id="_x0000_i1034" type="#_x0000_t75"
alt="Portrait of a Woman of the Hofer Family, artist unknown, c. 1470"
style='width:203.25pt;height:271.5pt'>
<v:imagedata src="file:///C:\Users\Anna\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image018.jpg"
o:href="http://media-cache-ec3.pinimg.com/736x/d8/9f/2a/d89f2a299097e1ac1d9d30236679c18c.jpg"/>
</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There are also a number of Schleier with
frilled edges and Vächer, somewhat a combination of the earlier fashion with
the frilled veils and the later ones with Vächer. There is also a geographic
difference since frills is predominantly used in the western parts of Europe
and the Vächer more in the German speaking cultures. In this portrait the
Schleiers is supported by a Vulsthaube of a rather unusual shape, the edges are
frilled and it is definetly pinned or stitched together. It seems that the part
hanging down in the back is also pinned/stitched along the edge so that it will
hang neatly together.</div>
<h3>
Hair showing and the use
of the Gefrens</h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape id="_x0000_i1036" type="#_x0000_t75"
alt="20101113-Muenchen-BNM-402 by Lady Petronilla, via Flickr" style='width:5in;
height:480pt'>
<v:imagedata src="file:///C:\Users\Anna\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image022.jpg"
o:href="http://media-cache-ec2.pinimg.com/736x/fc/01/50/fc0150aab3c606dd57d42e3d456d0f83.jpg"/>
</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDUei0q-9CEEcnLEeDz8gcBAlIT57RpaC0QLjxLgBMcJUBkaEia6McaVTkKyTmbiWPQd1hpvgZQ-7BQ07yFoZUfRgO87DbLtzDq9Rw4dqk7uxBV3ooOA48-QmVlpKA4MkIVgk9MmtT99I/s1600/v%25C3%25A4ch+gefrens.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDUei0q-9CEEcnLEeDz8gcBAlIT57RpaC0QLjxLgBMcJUBkaEia6McaVTkKyTmbiWPQd1hpvgZQ-7BQ07yFoZUfRgO87DbLtzDq9Rw4dqk7uxBV3ooOA48-QmVlpKA4MkIVgk9MmtT99I/s320/v%25C3%25A4ch+gefrens.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="background: rgb(254, 254, 254); font-size: 10pt; text-align: start;">Portrait of a Burgerfrau</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; text-align: start;"><br /><span style="background: rgb(254, 254, 254);">Sebald Bopp attributed, 1475</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A number of
portraits and the main part of women depicted in the Hausbook of Castle Wolfegg
part of the hair, braided, is shown over the temples and hiding the ears. The
use of the Gefrens, the little fringe of string covering the back of the neck,
seems to be the fashion, often seen in combination with the Vächer (pleated
Steuchleins), but it does not seem to be used when the Vulst comes into use. I
would say, after having studied this in many pictures covering the period
1440-1510, that the Gefrens falls out of use as the Vulst gets popular in the
last decades before 1500. The same goes for showing of hair/braids over the
temples and ears, it too is not to be seen in combination with the Vulst and is
also seen in the earlier decades and fades away towards the end of the 15<sup>th</sup>
C.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM0UVZMwYfhKsaBzcip9fqWsAKMHRfSBY2OSEmte_DwZs85c8WMHZO_1yp6vLkUxExa8z5GPD1FHHG4L0bEKpP3oBi4TXUQYFhgQ6HazYMHI0hJ5a3uVs0mJuOAty9G9w48Ff5PLKoKmw/s1600/pair+of+lovers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM0UVZMwYfhKsaBzcip9fqWsAKMHRfSBY2OSEmte_DwZs85c8WMHZO_1yp6vLkUxExa8z5GPD1FHHG4L0bEKpP3oBi4TXUQYFhgQ6HazYMHI0hJ5a3uVs0mJuOAty9G9w48Ff5PLKoKmw/s320/pair+of+lovers.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /><span style="background-color: white; color: #171717; font-size: 10.6667px; text-align: start;">Pair of lovers, Master BXG, detail, Germany, 1470-1490</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFasNxo9tYxVEu4AoIkhkubePD0avmEhT7Bj2cS9IB5Z8h_TwgRTc8-IMU_oh8jJtWQUr1ANzjAhbGdjSpMXCAlDmks9pW068HAx3xCsmYrlAUn60HHumxm9-Vrg47RlaH0PtBWSd1s_4/s1600/plym.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFasNxo9tYxVEu4AoIkhkubePD0avmEhT7Bj2cS9IB5Z8h_TwgRTc8-IMU_oh8jJtWQUr1ANzjAhbGdjSpMXCAlDmks9pW068HAx3xCsmYrlAUn60HHumxm9-Vrg47RlaH0PtBWSd1s_4/s320/plym.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /><span lang="EN-GB" style="background: white; color: #333333; font-size: 10pt; text-align: start;">15th century (1486?) Germany Basel, Universitätsbibliothek, AN II 3: Matriculation Register of the Rectorate of the University of Basel, Volume 1 (1460-1567) fol.69v - Rektorat von Ludwig Odertzheym, SS 1486; coat of arms</span><span class="apple-converted-space" style="font-size: small; text-align: start;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="background: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> </span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<h3>
<span lang="EN-GB"> </span>Wrapped layers?<span lang="EN-GB"> </span></h3>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEien9Wznq4FH1Tg9ygt99UBLt_1Sa_V9wUjQ4jn8hcpLp-KGYZiwaDDwlM1oNqdhWMWl9qxwlPSxC8AKzQmB-SvvS_erYUObmC9-8BRjDtpamHprpIuQaDqCea8dVyQ_uU04A0fvMsiS8s/s1600/plate.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEien9Wznq4FH1Tg9ygt99UBLt_1Sa_V9wUjQ4jn8hcpLp-KGYZiwaDDwlM1oNqdhWMWl9qxwlPSxC8AKzQmB-SvvS_erYUObmC9-8BRjDtpamHprpIuQaDqCea8dVyQ_uU04A0fvMsiS8s/s320/plate.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lägg till <span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 13.3333px; text-align: start;">Detail from the Birth of Mary, 1490-1510, Ansbach, Germany (Schwanenritteraltar, St. Gumbertus)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
Another
possible solution is wrapping a long band of hemmed linen fabric to create the
“pleats”. Like the well known picture of Mary Magdalene by Rogier van der
Weyden. Just compare these two pictures and you will see what I mean.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpU3dlSYz19AGla3-YAOBmwdrZ9TLXms1gkh5-oXmlpxJA8qrfOq_92BXdz1w4nSn34Ykb9-ADOuLQWd2aAaBonbI0m1rRACw-Pun5S6WzwzYC43uTYgstR1vxiaZR0Fz3_DLsO3gdCPo/s1600/weyden+mary.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpU3dlSYz19AGla3-YAOBmwdrZ9TLXms1gkh5-oXmlpxJA8qrfOq_92BXdz1w4nSn34Ykb9-ADOuLQWd2aAaBonbI0m1rRACw-Pun5S6WzwzYC43uTYgstR1vxiaZR0Fz3_DLsO3gdCPo/s320/weyden+mary.jpg" width="230" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><h1 style="background: rgb(248, 248, 248); line-height: 15pt; text-align: start;">
<span lang="DE" style="color: #171717; font-size: 8pt; font-weight: normal;">Rogier van der WEYDEN. </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #171717; font-size: 8pt; font-weight: normal;">St Mary Magdalene 1450s Silverpoint on prepared paper</span></h1>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
Steuchliens without pleats
and using patterned fabrics</h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">There are
also variations showing Steuchliens without the pleats, using other elements of
decoration, and being used with or without the Vulst. Here are some examples:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUUqvo7WmYs5SLULuq-AGCHfu07xh9bJqdHTMZx8ZBAR_SAxdVnIZRpQ-fnbEax5VcpOOKwd4EihL_olO4e4sjSWNDydMdSHQvHWPrm0U49U-Dq_qIv1RZa8MmftXpu3rAEZ_YHmHQ5Ys/s1600/red+stripe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="295" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUUqvo7WmYs5SLULuq-AGCHfu07xh9bJqdHTMZx8ZBAR_SAxdVnIZRpQ-fnbEax5VcpOOKwd4EihL_olO4e4sjSWNDydMdSHQvHWPrm0U49U-Dq_qIv1RZa8MmftXpu3rAEZ_YHmHQ5Ys/s320/red+stripe.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, 'ヒラギノ角ゴ Pro W3', 'Hiragino Kaku Gothic Pro', メイリオ, Meiryo, 'MS Pゴシック', arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px; text-align: start;">Wife of Dr. Johann Stephan Reuss - Lucas Cranach the Elder</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape id="_x0000_i1043" type="#_x0000_t75"
style='width:276.75pt;height:255pt'>
<v:imagedata src="file:///C:\Users\Anna\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image033.jpg"
o:href="http://i797.photobucket.com/albums/yy252/gluckliche-eme/My%20pictures/05reuss.jpg"/>
</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">In this
portrait it looks more like a woven piece with black (or dark blue) and red
stripes. It looks like it is simply tied in a knot in the back and then the
longer wimple-piece is folded and pinned in the back instead of hanging down.
And in the following it is a thin three stripes in black on the veil.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg5o_57cwup0af7GuAZz7CE3K7AKzlGcJ6nYez-qxXJ3c4OXv6_v93j3BfCksmlj805pk_GSUwnpzX-0NBYLuS5IBanns8FPP5qRD1WtwAcBabLNE9fYsw_8h3JOCvIgsxlYqj9iUUCzQ/s1600/swabia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg5o_57cwup0af7GuAZz7CE3K7AKzlGcJ6nYez-qxXJ3c4OXv6_v93j3BfCksmlj805pk_GSUwnpzX-0NBYLuS5IBanns8FPP5qRD1WtwAcBabLNE9fYsw_8h3JOCvIgsxlYqj9iUUCzQ/s1600/swabia.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="background: white; color: #333333; font-size: 10pt;">Anonymous German Artist active in Swabia<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="background: white; color: #333333; font-size: 10pt;">ca. 1480 Portrait of a Woman<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;">
<br /></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="EN-GB">Testing theories</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">According
to sumptuary laws one was not allowed more than six Vächer (folds) in a
headdress in Nuremberg</span><a href="file:///C:/Users/Anna/Documents/1400-tal/Tyskt%2014/V%C3%A4cher/Research%20paper%20on%20V%C3%A4cher.doc#_ftn6" name="_ftnref6" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: SV; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: SV;">[6]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a><span lang="EN-GB">. Obviously this was not obeyed, as
can be seen in the picturematerial provided earlier. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">I have some
different theories to try concerning construction of Vächer. First I want to
try the simple wrap a really long veil around your head letting the hem form
Vächer. So I started with a long light-weight linen veil, long enough to wrap
six laps and leaving a vimple to hang around the neck. This meant that I had to
hem about 5,5 metres of veil. Then the veil turned out too wide, so I had to
cut it down and re-hem it down one side. It is not easy to wrap it neatly
around the head either, the length of it lying in a heap on the floor. And the
weight is a strain on the neck with just the six Vächer. It also is very hard
to get that very neat and tight row of pleats as I have shown in the period art
examples. Jutta Sander-Zeidel describes these Schleier as finely layered pleats
referred to as Vach/Vächer and also states that they are held together by a
punctuating fastening of some kind</span><a href="file:///C:/Users/Anna/Documents/1400-tal/Tyskt%2014/V%C3%A4cher/Research%20paper%20on%20V%C3%A4cher.doc#_ftn7" name="_ftnref7" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: SV; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: SV;">[7]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a><span lang="EN-GB">. Some of the depictions I have
shown indicated pins, others might be either a single or multiple rows of
stitches.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB"><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape
id="_x0000_i1045" type="#_x0000_t75" style='width:120.75pt;height:225.75pt'>
<v:imagedata src="file:///C:\Users\Anna\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image037.jpg"
o:title="wrapping vacher"/>
</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]--><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape id="_x0000_i1046"
type="#_x0000_t75" style='width:131.25pt;height:225.75pt'>
<v:imagedata src="file:///C:\Users\Anna\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image039.jpg"
o:title="Vacher front"/>
</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]--><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape id="_x0000_i1047"
type="#_x0000_t75" style='width:145.5pt;height:225.75pt'>
<v:imagedata src="file:///C:\Users\Anna\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image041.jpg"
o:title="Vacher behind"/>
</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]--><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape id="_x0000_i1048"
type="#_x0000_t75" style='width:133.5pt;height:173.25pt'>
<v:imagedata src="file:///C:\Users\Anna\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image043.jpg"
o:title="Vacher side"/>
</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]--><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape id="_x0000_i1049"
type="#_x0000_t75" style='width:260.25pt;height:173.25pt'>
<v:imagedata src="file:///C:\Users\Anna\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image045.jpg"
o:title="Vacher front detail"/>
</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhff_IS5fKkfk1CG5fXY9t1mmhqOs5nwI9JPhsHunIdxUoZIeLczUzNRRkZ6dknhvFMuebCB2RZ-zOec773F4Hxjbw1szXr9r52vqrdqBsLtJs__WnGw1IkDlW0bObAWdLenkxZwIM3jn8/s1600/DSC_0606.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhff_IS5fKkfk1CG5fXY9t1mmhqOs5nwI9JPhsHunIdxUoZIeLczUzNRRkZ6dknhvFMuebCB2RZ-zOec773F4Hxjbw1szXr9r52vqrdqBsLtJs__WnGw1IkDlW0bObAWdLenkxZwIM3jn8/s320/DSC_0606.JPG" width="212" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNPGMDY2R6S08anZzUqnkLfWsXoltCLr2BiKkmsF5iklB5FiDVk_NC0uragEja-XZCZYKlAqNjx5iaYwALGyJZuJMM_DP15FKUdIuqq9h4wfLnYIgIce5Jm6nC6iWdQeRNDnotXaRISc8/s1600/DSC_0612.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNPGMDY2R6S08anZzUqnkLfWsXoltCLr2BiKkmsF5iklB5FiDVk_NC0uragEja-XZCZYKlAqNjx5iaYwALGyJZuJMM_DP15FKUdIuqq9h4wfLnYIgIce5Jm6nC6iWdQeRNDnotXaRISc8/s320/DSC_0612.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">Considering
these findings I am convinced that any headdress showing more than six Vächer
needs to be constructed otherwise. I mean, in some of those pictures the lady
is wearing up to 20 or more Vächer. Even if you made it in silk it would be a
huge amount of fabric that you have to manuever around your head.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">So I had to
look for other options in order to get that look with a stack of pleats over
the forehead. A separate section with just the pleats seemed to be a promising
thing to try, better than the widespread used solution on sewn pleats at the
end of a veil that I, as well as many others, have used. First I will show a
few examples of my tryouts to get the right look with the pleated veil.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcEQfTr0Mqr0qHxVKDcFjbRGvQvwUGcKXRh_hVpImrHmfjwB5t2ycho9eFSqjJXNN1sfcpgf_Yv3VJd3vzCrT01s4XS7lKTDH-EZbiKENFIwB39nmOmQnOYVWefmAg42d7Tio08apOJlc/s1600/me+v%25C3%25A4cher+extra+veil.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcEQfTr0Mqr0qHxVKDcFjbRGvQvwUGcKXRh_hVpImrHmfjwB5t2ycho9eFSqjJXNN1sfcpgf_Yv3VJd3vzCrT01s4XS7lKTDH-EZbiKENFIwB39nmOmQnOYVWefmAg42d7Tio08apOJlc/s320/me+v%25C3%25A4cher+extra+veil.jpg" width="296" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2h4eFTAlxs4gt9PhPNQsuDe7zDNGF_HM7C3sbwnYaNECBUfVoonfBOk2_8vnVHx6s518KvAyk3YrgECPUybur2uzAFquE39hiLRFVq979lNYvmJSoB8vmQK0nUuFSAuHdJlamyOnaOBw/s1600/me+v%25C3%25A4cher+folded+veil.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2h4eFTAlxs4gt9PhPNQsuDe7zDNGF_HM7C3sbwnYaNECBUfVoonfBOk2_8vnVHx6s518KvAyk3YrgECPUybur2uzAFquE39hiLRFVq979lNYvmJSoB8vmQK0nUuFSAuHdJlamyOnaOBw/s320/me+v%25C3%25A4cher+folded+veil.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkQx607RSXeQDww83dT6zfEh7a3NuQ48Jrb1bjE6u5N7BONH3OxI6jg1xaPDJeIrdCcY3wfG1Q-dPRD1bVxl8uLFIELSf1rvGsyaSiE8qe5Hc0iv2A39nj5fMEmdV6ebX5K2jwk2a9X4o/s1600/Me+v%25C3%25A4cher+brown+hausbook.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkQx607RSXeQDww83dT6zfEh7a3NuQ48Jrb1bjE6u5N7BONH3OxI6jg1xaPDJeIrdCcY3wfG1Q-dPRD1bVxl8uLFIELSf1rvGsyaSiE8qe5Hc0iv2A39nj5fMEmdV6ebX5K2jwk2a9X4o/s320/Me+v%25C3%25A4cher+brown+hausbook.jpg" width="237" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">First
picture shows the plain rather square veil with pleats at one end, folded over
the forehead, pinned in the back and then simply tucked in. The second picture
shows additional long veils wrapped on top of the pinned pleated veil. It works
but does not really add up for me. I favour the use of gefrens and braids
showing over the ears. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">So back to
the drawing board. I wanted to get the look of stacked pleats and when discussing
this with Meisterinne Katheryn we both agreed that a separate piece, pinned or
basted onto a small cap, with or without a vulst, would be a logical solution.
Then the cap can be washed while the pleated piece can be kept in good
condition, maybe even starched to keep the shape. That also gives you the
ability to use the piece with or without the vulst or with different caps.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">I started
with hemming a lot of linen strips, stacking them up and then basting them
together to form a neat little row of pleats. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB"><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape
id="_x0000_i1052" type="#_x0000_t75" style='width:216.75pt;height:122.25pt'>
<v:imagedata src="file:///C:\Users\Anna\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image051.jpg"
o:title="Vächer nålade"/>
</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]--><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape id="_x0000_i1053"
type="#_x0000_t75" style='width:3in;height:121.5pt'>
<v:imagedata src="file:///C:\Users\Anna\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image053.jpg"
o:title="Vächer ihoptråcklade"/>
</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEittt9tmInn9DTnM9mbhB727mGt_b7aeLCLiSiQfFUC8fgr8PnxocuplH9n3s19CTQ3dEIiECso6Lm-GeuVEI79x1OCOWEJ5bGisWQukh2KIE6YlFeZK3iTNXBH9gVfzo5Q5iXDfx4gwXk/s1600/V%25C3%25A4cher+n%25C3%25A5lade.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEittt9tmInn9DTnM9mbhB727mGt_b7aeLCLiSiQfFUC8fgr8PnxocuplH9n3s19CTQ3dEIiECso6Lm-GeuVEI79x1OCOWEJ5bGisWQukh2KIE6YlFeZK3iTNXBH9gVfzo5Q5iXDfx4gwXk/s320/V%25C3%25A4cher+n%25C3%25A5lade.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc9a6UGkDqz3bAcm-ywSI5Ew0mxp8SiDAdJ91xbTwBW3TGSFH7jpjW3ltAlKcgzhZpbuDkz1qT5WXGd6pjhr6hk1HH7vN3VbhyC6uEjeyauJscNAznjcOlHKQTx1cBnG8Cqw3E1PnsBxc/s1600/V%25C3%25A4cher+ihoptr%25C3%25A5cklade.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="177" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc9a6UGkDqz3bAcm-ywSI5Ew0mxp8SiDAdJ91xbTwBW3TGSFH7jpjW3ltAlKcgzhZpbuDkz1qT5WXGd6pjhr6hk1HH7vN3VbhyC6uEjeyauJscNAznjcOlHKQTx1cBnG8Cqw3E1PnsBxc/s320/V%25C3%25A4cher+ihoptr%25C3%25A5cklade.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">I formed
the basted stack of pleats into a piece and fastened it all together at the
sides.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigKfDHYdY-jmQeF6A5HFHwYkpNSPSutWeYcrH_uWziw89dnJCusHPBzCwQtjtK6HYaDFrPaofbo9lvQ-wUc-5C8JyTRWr_VC_Mj3vPrNsrs4J-jirvZzJRQULYFBzQaxCQiQ5V7yCrN3U/s1600/V%25C3%25A4cher+f%25C3%25A4rdig.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="195" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigKfDHYdY-jmQeF6A5HFHwYkpNSPSutWeYcrH_uWziw89dnJCusHPBzCwQtjtK6HYaDFrPaofbo9lvQ-wUc-5C8JyTRWr_VC_Mj3vPrNsrs4J-jirvZzJRQULYFBzQaxCQiQ5V7yCrN3U/s320/V%25C3%25A4cher+f%25C3%25A4rdig.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB"><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape
id="_x0000_i1054" type="#_x0000_t75" style='width:219pt;height:134.25pt'>
<v:imagedata src="file:///C:\Users\Anna\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image055.jpg"
o:title="Vächer färdig"/>
</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]--></span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">Then I went
on to construction of some kind of cap to pin/baste it too. I decided to try
with a very simple version of a vulst, a piece of linen rolled around some wool
yarn forming a padded roll at one end. Then I formed it in the sides with a
simple gathering and finally stitched on a band to tie it with. But since tying
it with a knot would not go well with putting a veil on top I decided to pin
the tiebands together over the forehead instead. The vulst leaves the back of
the head uncovered.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape id="_x0000_i1055" type="#_x0000_t75"
style='width:83.25pt;height:150pt'>
<v:imagedata src="file:///C:\Users\Anna\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image057.jpg"
o:title="Vächer på vulst"/>
</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]--><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape id="_x0000_i1056"
type="#_x0000_t75" style='width:108pt;height:149.25pt'>
<v:imagedata src="file:///C:\Users\Anna\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image059.jpg"
o:title="Vächervulst på"/>
</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]--><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape id="_x0000_i1057"
type="#_x0000_t75" style='width:157.5pt;height:150.75pt'>
<v:imagedata src="file:///C:\Users\Anna\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image061.jpg"
o:title="Separate vacher without veil front"/>
</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-GB"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUjvY1yDgB4ARirXYZjtNQZqKpsx5us0E6H_mVRS3Utq-OlfB05EGBfwWski5Xum72RqaBruc_VK_3sKadGkJ0Pggohystx6vffpVWx8Fc_aWPVRdn5HGZsIKKCubXZL3g0ktqUSVnVxs/s1600/V%25C3%25A4cher+p%25C3%25A5+vulst.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUjvY1yDgB4ARirXYZjtNQZqKpsx5us0E6H_mVRS3Utq-OlfB05EGBfwWski5Xum72RqaBruc_VK_3sKadGkJ0Pggohystx6vffpVWx8Fc_aWPVRdn5HGZsIKKCubXZL3g0ktqUSVnVxs/s320/V%25C3%25A4cher+p%25C3%25A5+vulst.jpg" width="178" /></a></div>
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o:title="Separate vacher without veil back"/>
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o:title="Separate vacher with veil front"/>
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<span lang="EN-GB">With a
smaller veil wrapped and pinned on top the separate vächer looks rather neat
and it is so much more comfortable and easier to wear then the 5,5 meters of
veil. This will also work very well with a longer veil hanging down in the neck
and forming a vimple as well. So the 5,5 meter veil will most likely not live
very long but will be divided into two or maybe even three long veils, to be
used on top of this separate Vächer-piece.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB">Sources:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB">Sturtewegen,
Isis “”</span><a href="http://search.ugent.be/meercat/x/all-view?q=rug01:001396515"><span lang="EN-GB" style="background: white; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Een gouwen rync
ende een ransse" : de gerimpelde hoofddoek in het modelandschap van de
Lage Landen der late middeleeuwen : een interdisciplinaire studie</span></a><span lang="EN-GB" style="background: white; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">”, Master thesis
(Ghent University, 2009)</span><span lang="EN-GB"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Zander-Seidel, Jutta “Textiler Hausrat – Kleidung und
Haustextilien in Nürnberg von 1500-1650, München 1990<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div id="ftn1">
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<a href="file:///C:/Users/Anna/Documents/1400-tal/Tyskt%2014/V%C3%A4cher/Research%20paper%20on%20V%C3%A4cher.doc#_ftnref1" name="_ftn1" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: SV; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: SV;">[1]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a><span lang="DE"> Zander-Seidel 1990, pp 112-113<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Users/Anna/Documents/1400-tal/Tyskt%2014/V%C3%A4cher/Research%20paper%20on%20V%C3%A4cher.doc#_ftnref2" name="_ftn2" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: SV; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: SV;">[2]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a><span lang="DE"> Zander-Seidel 1990, p 110<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoFootnoteText">
<a href="file:///C:/Users/Anna/Documents/1400-tal/Tyskt%2014/V%C3%A4cher/Research%20paper%20on%20V%C3%A4cher.doc#_ftnref3" name="_ftn3" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: SV; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: SV;">[3]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a><span lang="DE"> Sturtewegen 2008-2009, p 2<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoFootnoteText">
<a href="file:///C:/Users/Anna/Documents/1400-tal/Tyskt%2014/V%C3%A4cher/Research%20paper%20on%20V%C3%A4cher.doc#_ftnref4" name="_ftn4" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: SV; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: SV;">[4]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a><span lang="DE"> Sturtewegen 2008-2009. p 2<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoFootnoteText">
<a href="file:///C:/Users/Anna/Documents/1400-tal/Tyskt%2014/V%C3%A4cher/Research%20paper%20on%20V%C3%A4cher.doc#_ftnref5" name="_ftn5" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: SV; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: SV;">[5]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a><span lang="DE"> Zander-Seidel 1990, pp 110-111<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoFootnoteText">
<a href="file:///C:/Users/Anna/Documents/1400-tal/Tyskt%2014/V%C3%A4cher/Research%20paper%20on%20V%C3%A4cher.doc#_ftnref6" name="_ftn6" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: SV; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: SV;">[6]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a> Zander-Seidel 1990, p 110<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Users/Anna/Documents/1400-tal/Tyskt%2014/V%C3%A4cher/Research%20paper%20on%20V%C3%A4cher.doc#_ftnref7" name="_ftn7" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: SV; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: SV;">[7]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a> Zander-Seidel 1990, p 110<o:p></o:p></div>
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Annahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6775240648800748970.post-25097986999832973932016-01-15T11:20:00.001-08:002016-01-15T11:20:50.692-08:00Back to the fourteenth centuryAs I find it hard to resist a challenge, I had no choice but to join in on the #herjolfsneschallenge. My aim is to make a new and improved set of 14th century garb to be used in the Battle of Wisby-camp coming August this year (http://www.battleofwisby.com/) as well as to go more in depth into the Herjolfsnes finds, as they are plain at first sight but intriguingly complex in sewing techniques and details.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8uURRQh8nui4voEnLFuDb5-jjjdVsjPFLszDKAdjQCwcPqH-mVf1IMcPkhyJcf3t4I4AUthTCKhOsKn-AwfnB9dLY745U18PdL3wYpvBO8aFsDEMYYsFfyGJWMeb4UA6PffxbMggXsRo/s1600/N%25C3%25B6rlund+No+cropped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8uURRQh8nui4voEnLFuDb5-jjjdVsjPFLszDKAdjQCwcPqH-mVf1IMcPkhyJcf3t4I4AUthTCKhOsKn-AwfnB9dLY745U18PdL3wYpvBO8aFsDEMYYsFfyGJWMeb4UA6PffxbMggXsRo/s320/N%25C3%25B6rlund+No+cropped.jpg" width="155" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The original as presented<br /> in Östergård</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Starting small, I got this lovely hand-woven striped fabric from Maria, just about enough for a small hood. Looking through Woven into the Earth by Else Östergård, I decided on the hood Nörlund No. 78 (D10606). This particular hood is one of the best preserved and it has been radiocarbon dated to 1380-1440, a tad bit late for the garb I´m making but the type is very generic. And since the challenge is to be as true to the original as possible, I started with a mockup with the original measurements.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHC9rhxialxMC_vLdQk93fFbgKW1Amp7yDPYFltt22G0Go91HmOIna_Bh4qAy9Re85nOxmqlaNhH4nPLKc4l5mjo3EdKtOcPY7tIPagpfYyYtBqx6Z9jtvJBNUQVMygORwDOpS3bJQd9Q/s1600/First+mockup+cropped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="158" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHC9rhxialxMC_vLdQk93fFbgKW1Amp7yDPYFltt22G0Go91HmOIna_Bh4qAy9Re85nOxmqlaNhH4nPLKc4l5mjo3EdKtOcPY7tIPagpfYyYtBqx6Z9jtvJBNUQVMygORwDOpS3bJQd9Q/s200/First+mockup+cropped.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The first mockup looked right enough.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Some essential measurements are however not stated in the book, such as the width over the neck. Winging it did not work. It got way to narrow to get over my head. So onto next mockup, and then some...<br />
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As I finally got a mockup that worked, I was pleased to see that the original measurements were mostly still there. Time to cut the actual fabric, and that is always excruciating when you have only that amount of fabric that has been custom made for you.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnY6BatkZ17SCcSWE-C_6RSG3-l263-TRJ6Bwvr5VCSqk7K17rU1T3cYbAFoV6AO-vs9bR6212j8hErY2t9dCplPV2FI5FPsp13dJxmxB5FUJg92fJf-o9d1HJO8yMBrjnAT0Z96tWbkA/s1600/Final+mockup+cropped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnY6BatkZ17SCcSWE-C_6RSG3-l263-TRJ6Bwvr5VCSqk7K17rU1T3cYbAFoV6AO-vs9bR6212j8hErY2t9dCplPV2FI5FPsp13dJxmxB5FUJg92fJf-o9d1HJO8yMBrjnAT0Z96tWbkA/s320/Final+mockup+cropped.jpg" width="273" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The final mockup</td></tr>
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The fabric is a lovely yellow twill with green stripes, all plant-dyed and handwoven, inspired by striped fabrics from the 14th century as can be seen in the London finds for instance. Striped fabric also showes up in Tartu, Estonia (see Mervi´s pictures here:<br />
http://hibernaatio.blogspot.se/2015/12/aarreaitta-tarton-keskiaikaiset.html)<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiJWp3W1mIx0_N1o2yxtOV5KfD5YwmV4m3V6Lu2dE6YmRSsHB0HRUDY-gfgd_W6TvM1mWzxALeZuuMymUeJew3cHy4jtxwUXktFp27u-Y9qgRoZkUHpYbVRd06YJKnoNT__lGj4poWPiY/s1600/The+cut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiJWp3W1mIx0_N1o2yxtOV5KfD5YwmV4m3V6Lu2dE6YmRSsHB0HRUDY-gfgd_W6TvM1mWzxALeZuuMymUeJew3cHy4jtxwUXktFp27u-Y9qgRoZkUHpYbVRd06YJKnoNT__lGj4poWPiY/s320/The+cut.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The hood cut out of Maria´s lovely striped fabric<br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">
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I was very happy when Mervi showed these finds since Tartu is way closer to Wisby than London, and I aim to make something probable for a 14th century woman living on Gotland.<br />
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As everything was cut all that remained was the sewing part. The original pieces of clothing in Herjolfsnes were sewn with a twisted wool thread. In Medieval Garments Reconstructed the sewing threads from Herjolfsnes are described as specifically made for stitching, S-twisted of two Z-spun threads and rarely over one mm in diameter. It is also stated that it is virtually impossible to purchase this kind of thread for sewing a reconstruction. Hence I chose to use a two-ply thin brown wool thread, most likely a lot thinner than the original,but found easily available in my sewing basket. The stitches of the originals are also described in Medieval Garments Reconstructed as very fine and no longer than 5 mm. Since I tend to make small stitches this was right up my alley.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKqudhjkVvx8We8uNC-mMmCRPu9k1XhNIdQs5ZcagOapSH2QN3cJx4NGVtvZdMwdCqOTVDvNY2sRMksmdAEhHBH1ai4cBi2lT6NqELTxjfX-xjwEAu8FH5nEjU-p2ZdBXFMkvS1nzhOZE/s1600/Felling+seams.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKqudhjkVvx8We8uNC-mMmCRPu9k1XhNIdQs5ZcagOapSH2QN3cJx4NGVtvZdMwdCqOTVDvNY2sRMksmdAEhHBH1ai4cBi2lT6NqELTxjfX-xjwEAu8FH5nEjU-p2ZdBXFMkvS1nzhOZE/s200/Felling+seams.jpg" width="110" /></a>Sewing the pieces together was done rather quickly, and I was happy to see the project progressing. Then came the not so fun parts. like felling all the seams inside of the liripipe in order for them not to fray on me. And the liripipe has two long seams, giving me four long sides to fell... This called for some aiding equipment. When all seams where done and felled and the hood had a shape I finally got to the fun part, the decorative stabstitching. The original hood has two rows of fine stab stitching along the bottom hem and around the face opening. This is a time-consuming part of the project, but well worth it in the end. These are the sewing details that really makes these garments.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb1GmEP9V3FFMaIUEBheFm54wyjxt0s2jZwgitDooJ_EidQ5FGfM3ICoNikBUZJjQX3A030mR1UOTUqb6p4D65bQ31ZlPELWwYqHkWM1UdoxDNJOIkec21h5XBZPrJC4sazUCPwSByiHs/s1600/Stabstitched+hem+cropped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb1GmEP9V3FFMaIUEBheFm54wyjxt0s2jZwgitDooJ_EidQ5FGfM3ICoNikBUZJjQX3A030mR1UOTUqb6p4D65bQ31ZlPELWwYqHkWM1UdoxDNJOIkec21h5XBZPrJC4sazUCPwSByiHs/s320/Stabstitched+hem+cropped.jpg" width="257" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stab stitches along the hem</td></tr>
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It took three nights in front of the telly to finish the hems, and it was so much fun that I had to set an alarm in order to remember to go to bed (real life has to come first, like kids getting to school and me getting to work) but late yesterday evening it was finished. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_JUTTuCI_0yInW4ssaNrHMyAXdcARuJtn3W2ipKMOkd0ipEuMCBX_bFpjwjxD60gizQv0whkGf-BwRaYheZPxJgX7mqfVG_kL8jf1Cpp59A-O2vpY14ksCAtiZ1amrFbQhWWKxKg1NvU/s1600/My+striped+hood+cropped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_JUTTuCI_0yInW4ssaNrHMyAXdcARuJtn3W2ipKMOkd0ipEuMCBX_bFpjwjxD60gizQv0whkGf-BwRaYheZPxJgX7mqfVG_kL8jf1Cpp59A-O2vpY14ksCAtiZ1amrFbQhWWKxKg1NvU/s400/My+striped+hood+cropped.jpg" width="268" /></a></div>
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Annahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6775240648800748970.post-72485857919700997312015-10-12T06:01:00.000-07:002015-10-12T06:01:32.272-07:00Ah to be done at last!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="text-align: left;">This is by far one of the longest UFO´s I have finally finished. Or at least I hope it is, not sure what else might be hiding in my boxes and baskets. Here is how it once started, more than three and a half years ago: </span></div>
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<a href="http://renikasanachronisticadventures.blogspot.se/2012/01/fiddeling-with-small-scale-embroidery.html">http://renikasanachronisticadventures.blogspot.se/2012/01/fiddeling-with-small-scale-embroidery.html</a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">I chose to make my almony purse with two differing embroidered sides, but with an overall theme of music and the Seasons of nature. This side was the first I finished, and is thought to represent Autumn. The little guy playing the fiddle is inspired by an Italian manuscript and one of the main inspiration for the overall motif is an extant almony purse presently at the Metropolitan Museum: </span><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/466693" style="text-align: left;">http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/466693</a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghJXKOPpdqFU6KoGf7FDb97RAOb39WYFsiGmRK2IZgmpc7pP4Sx7xBMw86Z_MDCcsFtQ3A6gFNgGXuSH3WAibdoC4OaJrfu4rHQkI2yLc9AaZcKVaYy8GpqKuDzaQ9HWL-2_j6E_6Ra6U/s1600/Autumn+motif+done.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghJXKOPpdqFU6KoGf7FDb97RAOb39WYFsiGmRK2IZgmpc7pP4Sx7xBMw86Z_MDCcsFtQ3A6gFNgGXuSH3WAibdoC4OaJrfu4rHQkI2yLc9AaZcKVaYy8GpqKuDzaQ9HWL-2_j6E_6Ra6U/s400/Autumn+motif+done.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Motif done</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipT3mNtHaXXbUxG3tCr4UI0EBHw-bE3QcZtuVGWz-NzMHog6P0YvWaf9EOmeNuYjrs79eugSkKqBiX5sKFdHNSdTXgrhykuF9grhfmflclu3Yn3xNYcEgO7l7ZBdA-LyjPEno1CjpEJME/s1600/Markings.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipT3mNtHaXXbUxG3tCr4UI0EBHw-bE3QcZtuVGWz-NzMHog6P0YvWaf9EOmeNuYjrs79eugSkKqBiX5sKFdHNSdTXgrhykuF9grhfmflclu3Yn3xNYcEgO7l7ZBdA-LyjPEno1CjpEJME/s400/Markings.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Markings for the layed work covering the background</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5h11iv5yG0p20GEbvrsMSZRVdG2kqpsV79hWQ7CM5OxRq9W1iO8iCjpWGdeKGPHJ-JSQq2dVKzpalY8_otVGPCI05hbbK6OfvU-TfOQzyhPP95VnSmJkcQyIj6KTtL72Eg8Wk7iTv-oE/s1600/Post+stamp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5h11iv5yG0p20GEbvrsMSZRVdG2kqpsV79hWQ7CM5OxRq9W1iO8iCjpWGdeKGPHJ-JSQq2dVKzpalY8_otVGPCI05hbbK6OfvU-TfOQzyhPP95VnSmJkcQyIj6KTtL72Eg8Wk7iTv-oE/s400/Post+stamp.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The post stamp</td></tr>
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For the opposite side I found the inspiration in a poststamp left in a little trinket box I bought at an auction.<br />
I made some enquieries on where from the motif came and, with the help of friends I found the original image, a church painting from Råda church, Närke in Sweden. <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbvs372n6tWEEIktZLXCXVmTDikTHePU9bNULPSWc3vIkNj86Uf40Igw8csekdsznR-fQA_1Ch84Sp5MVeWHvVoVIRYUFBo2WXcC9Mrz40N8ABQVoR585ii9RudGaXW5hGV71zHCFhdik/s1600/R%25C3%25A5da+Kyrka.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="330" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbvs372n6tWEEIktZLXCXVmTDikTHePU9bNULPSWc3vIkNj86Uf40Igw8csekdsznR-fQA_1Ch84Sp5MVeWHvVoVIRYUFBo2WXcC9Mrz40N8ABQVoR585ii9RudGaXW5hGV71zHCFhdik/s400/R%25C3%25A5da+Kyrka.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Church painting on wood from Råda, Närke</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkJvswMfobR3Uk07YtKpE6sKtu78vZyM-WM5LyYUCphMNMLljCBwDPdZu21DVkTfVi8d1dAwYnC3Lb5rAuOEDRY0qRDRTnn4xXNCHpkHRkYYmsWIO73aiYhANfA-Bh-O5LXMOsV7CtgJk/s1600/Almony+spring.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkJvswMfobR3Uk07YtKpE6sKtu78vZyM-WM5LyYUCphMNMLljCBwDPdZu21DVkTfVi8d1dAwYnC3Lb5rAuOEDRY0qRDRTnn4xXNCHpkHRkYYmsWIO73aiYhANfA-Bh-O5LXMOsV7CtgJk/s320/Almony+spring.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
When both pieces were done I went on to assembling the little purse with a white silk lining, cut to also form a top edge so that I wouldn´t have to pull the strings through the embroidery itself, even though that seems to be a common feature in extant aumonieres. Then I covered the edges with an embroidered braid in the two silks I used for the backgrounds, to tie it all together.<br />
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For tassels I chose to make them out of the same silks as the background and edging. A quick look through pictures of extant pieces shows there is a great variation in tassels, but five is a good and often used number.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCTCQOnTyf9RthpAB5s9Q-HanrgI2XBFQILXDjDaSO_0RohEf5CsFpVMagP2nww0FMgUcAycqUNREWiuh0ltDlUAXRNco5NqTxbXnXB-Zfhfweo93dXMOl1RQGvew2Yoi5YBXjZHqr6Bc/s1600/Antal+tofsar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCTCQOnTyf9RthpAB5s9Q-HanrgI2XBFQILXDjDaSO_0RohEf5CsFpVMagP2nww0FMgUcAycqUNREWiuh0ltDlUAXRNco5NqTxbXnXB-Zfhfweo93dXMOl1RQGvew2Yoi5YBXjZHqr6Bc/s320/Antal+tofsar.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
And since this has all been about challenging myself to do new stuff that I have always considered nearly impossible, I just had to try do make some turkish knots out of metal thread on the tassels to bring some extra glam to it all. I am very grateful to have friends offering to teach me stuff like this, because no matter how good instructions you can find in books and online, I depend on seeing it be done in order to get the hang of it. So here it is, all done! And now I fear I will never use it, just look at it every now and then. And I have learned so much during the process, sadly also that the silks I have used are not the best for this kind of work, and I would love to do better with the shadings and details in the split stitched motifs. But it still deserved to be finished!<br />
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<br />Annahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6775240648800748970.post-75113998165864076492015-05-20T10:52:00.000-07:002015-05-20T10:52:20.343-07:00Where, when, who, why?The first question to ask your self before taking the plunge into the adventure of creating a persona are where, when, who and, sometimes, why? These questions make the base for your research in material culture, first garb, then maybe feastgear, tents and pavilions, shoes, interior textiles, furniture and so on. The adventure might become a lifelong passion for knowledge.<br />
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After hanging out with Thora (http://www.morethancod.net/) for a week at Double Wars the thought of why we chose certain periods and regions for our reenactment/personas/geekiness hit me. I started out in the early nineties jumping all over medieval history making a little bit of everything, then decided to focus on the 14th Century, mainly because I live on Gotland and parttake in the Medieval Week that revolves around the battle of Wisby and Gotland in 1361. Anything 14th Century was game back then.<br />
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Since a few years I have shifted my focus to late 15th Century German. First out of pure love for mad headgear, the artwork from masters like Albrecht Durer and Master of the Hausbuch, then for the amount of sourcematerial coming from this region. My persona shifted to Renike Tucher, of the Tucher family, burghers from Nuremberg, and I focus on the time-frame 1470-1510. And believe me, I have so far only scraped the surface!<br />
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Thora has chosen another path, the one of digging where you stand, and focuses on the local culture of the far North of the entire medieval period in Norway. Fascinating and very much a contrast from mine, in terms of available sources, hardly any artwork but a material culture that would have been very much the same over the centuries.<br />
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So, have you decided on a where, when, who and, if so, why?Annahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6775240648800748970.post-84855176021197790422015-05-18T09:54:00.000-07:002015-05-18T09:54:05.276-07:00Buttons and frillsI bought a lovely lightweight wool fabric some years ago, one in a mustardy yellow and one in dark cherry red, both with a certain dress in mind. The yellow dress is now done and it was frequently used during the past week at Double Wars.<br />
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The model is based primarily on the dress shown in this little drawing by Martin Schongauer, depicting a young girl fanning a fire with a bird´s wing:<br />
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The dress looks fairly simple in cut, not fitted in the bodice but simply gathered by the belt in the waist and the lovely detail with a side-buttoned neck-opening. On the skirt a large frill shows, most likely a way of preserving some of the length to be used for a new bottom hem as the old one gets worn. These kind of frills can be seen on simpler kirtles during the 15th Century. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq-u1zVeczqSrj8t6VkXTAfDBc70BE33Xe8u2rqW43oGSaA41nx8ILojZe5a7DQVKdWdtbi3k0z8W0nnYBiXGnN882m0CPL9c2uYYiTgohBd8ErD3zWZ6cR_uOnQP2bkpSfRoTDau6yFg/s1600/Ruffled+kirtle+Master+of+the+Housebook.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq-u1zVeczqSrj8t6VkXTAfDBc70BE33Xe8u2rqW43oGSaA41nx8ILojZe5a7DQVKdWdtbi3k0z8W0nnYBiXGnN882m0CPL9c2uYYiTgohBd8ErD3zWZ6cR_uOnQP2bkpSfRoTDau6yFg/s320/Ruffled+kirtle+Master+of+the+Housebook.jpg" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Master of the Housebook, Children of Aristotle, detail</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Master of the Housebook, Princess Kleodeline</td></tr>
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I have not found many depictions showing a woman´s kirtle with a closure to one side but here is one that looks pinned.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiItghXP_WOMwpW2qd9F_CT47W4Ci1Z4X2Q8LZGOo9o8rcOoN5BBlkk5WzIScD7VE3sZ0a8y0-cUrdiPs8bWPjyS3l3dfK4od7HNblZknWegSSEZww35jxlHz6qhFLzPM4YCXNYTcytz_o/s1600/slippers+in+art.psd" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiItghXP_WOMwpW2qd9F_CT47W4Ci1Z4X2Q8LZGOo9o8rcOoN5BBlkk5WzIScD7VE3sZ0a8y0-cUrdiPs8bWPjyS3l3dfK4od7HNblZknWegSSEZww35jxlHz6qhFLzPM4YCXNYTcytz_o/s320/slippers+in+art.psd" width="220" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Israel van Meckenem, Couple seated on a bed</td></tr>
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I chose to cut my dress in four panels, and had to make a good mock-up before I found a satisfactory solution for the fastening. I was also a bit concerned over the frill, since the panels are more A-line than straight, but it worked better than I had hoped. For buttons I used some pewter buttons in the shape of acorns that I got as a gift for my fourtieth birthday. Yes, I love acorns. The dress is not lined other than along the neckline and top front to strengthen the buttoned part, and here I used an even finer wool in green. This dress will get used a lot, since it is easy to pull over a kirtle and use as a thin extra layer or as a simple dress to wear with ease when not feeling like getting into something tight and fitted.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The hat deserves a chapter of its own, I will see when I might get to that. </div>
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Annahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6775240648800748970.post-14700227026414648742015-04-12T11:54:00.000-07:002015-04-12T11:54:11.678-07:00To hide the mundane When playing the game that is SCA we strive for things to look and appear medieval, some of us aim for as much authenticity as possible. But sometimes I am truly grateful that the SCA gives allowance for creativity as well and to makes some shortcuts. Especially when trying to get your kids involved.<br />
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My kids really like their waterbottles and want to bring them with them. So I started with some nice embroidery for some bottlebags:<br />
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<a href="http://www.renikasanachronisticadventures.blogspot.se/2015/02/doodeling-with-needle-and-thread.html">http://www.renikasanachronisticadventures.blogspot.se/2015/02/doodeling-with-needle-and-thread.html</a><br />
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Soon after finishing that post I was done with the embroidery for the eldest son:<br />
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And since he was coming with me for a crafts-event this weekend I finally got around to actually making a bag out of it. During the event I also finished his brothers bag. I am sure they will be put to good use!</div>
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Annahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6775240648800748970.post-77532042245140436492015-02-03T10:36:00.000-08:002015-02-03T10:36:48.302-08:00Doodeling with needle and threadI truly suck at drawing, it just never turns out the way I imagine it. With a pen on a paper that is. But give me a needle and thread and the doodles just comes to me. I can look at an image and then make my own interpretation of it and I love this process. On the other hand I cannot for the life of me follow a line properly when filling it in with embroidery, my fingers just follow their own mind. Hence, counted embroidery is my big nemesis. I love the look, the symmetry, the patterns, but my fingers do not.<br />
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The project of making a bag for the youngest son, to keep his waterbottle and such in at events, was a challenge until I decided to go for free embroidery instead of a counted border. My main inspiration for doodle embroidery is this wonderful shirt/shift from the 17th C:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXtiOEznp6-c-StYS8zgISlfz6RVb9bEPU5YyqNi30areBE3z66j_QsB2kKUUayFGhh4cu4W1tMZSLyxZEDIvZ5P7St7wxGzh1EfaJJgiP-3qecsn0ekJaBLBMpalt2dwdsiTJ_z4TM8o/s1600/doodle+shirt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXtiOEznp6-c-StYS8zgISlfz6RVb9bEPU5YyqNi30areBE3z66j_QsB2kKUUayFGhh4cu4W1tMZSLyxZEDIvZ5P7St7wxGzh1EfaJJgiP-3qecsn0ekJaBLBMpalt2dwdsiTJ_z4TM8o/s1600/doodle+shirt.jpg" height="320" width="226" /></a></div>
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With this in mind I searched for animals to draw on a square piece of linen hemp, and then I draw some outlines in pencil. Then I embroidered one little animal per night, using a dark ambercoloured silk and using stemstitch for the outlines and stabstitch for effect. This is the result:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrQiglKU-i1ahUW7mogdtoP0u7cEwghv7hLleGajuR0pqFRWvhWXHXCYtbs_17VagRLJ1qnZQeMppCMIyymz4xDttGggNR3PLfYRAhn1NpnJpdQNiUKIW_mRAjmq-_f2X-FpxN5yUPW0s/s1600/Viktors+animals.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrQiglKU-i1ahUW7mogdtoP0u7cEwghv7hLleGajuR0pqFRWvhWXHXCYtbs_17VagRLJ1qnZQeMppCMIyymz4xDttGggNR3PLfYRAhn1NpnJpdQNiUKIW_mRAjmq-_f2X-FpxN5yUPW0s/s1600/Viktors+animals.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
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The only animal I haven´t found an example of in period art, embroidery or manuscript illuminations was the polar bear, but the youngling insisted on having one since it is his favourite animal. They were of course known in period and friendly people have pointed out that there even was one living in the court of Henry III and it was allowed to swim in the river Thames to catch fish. </div>
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Now my next project is a similar piece for the eldest son, who has decided on having only flying animals on his. So far I have drawn a collection of birds, a fly, a dragonfly, a butterfly and of course a bat and a dragon. This is so much fun spending my nights doodeling in front of the telly.</div>
<br />Annahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6775240648800748970.post-28771394761379807822015-01-26T03:12:00.000-08:002015-01-26T03:23:24.684-08:00Embroidery madness strikes!This New Year´s I stepped up as Guild Head of the Dragon´s needle embroidery Guild, and started a Facebook-group for us so that we can share projects, ideas, tips and tricks and inspire eachother. Well, it for sure seems to do the trick on my behalf. That, and getting to visit Petronilla in Germany and looking through some awesome books, museums and such.<br />
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I have embroidered like mad since I got home! And mostly for myself (and the family). The first project is going to be a cushion for me, with the elements of my heraldic arms (within the SCA that is), the green sun on golden background and the three golden acorns on green background. I wanted to try some appliqué and had some very nice wool at home, meant initially for a miparti-dress that never happened (the wool is a bit too heavy for a dress). First I cut all the pieces, using small paper patterns for the sun and acorns. Then I stitched all the pieces onto the ground fabric with thin linen thread and then finished it with strengthening edging in thicker linen thread in white, as can be seen in some period examples. When all the patches were done, they were pressed with a hot iron with a damp cloth inbetween, and they shaped beautifully.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZtaVxmJYFhQlS2hDEMxZzM37Mk6RzF-9TBBpSFUfCigQru7mTtK8tax7y48-BzQETkKqSHcW8xJxcsIMvnUr8GGMYbbiSK3IwTu8zwrrKnrm0HMOJZQyuzHqdScXIqTiAXsAsWWUEJuM/s1600/All+cut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZtaVxmJYFhQlS2hDEMxZzM37Mk6RzF-9TBBpSFUfCigQru7mTtK8tax7y48-BzQETkKqSHcW8xJxcsIMvnUr8GGMYbbiSK3IwTu8zwrrKnrm0HMOJZQyuzHqdScXIqTiAXsAsWWUEJuM/s1600/All+cut.jpg" height="400" width="225" /></a></div>
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Then it was assembly time, I sew the patches together with overcast stitches, small ones, they were folded out and pressed again and then on to the next patches. This was also done with the thin linen thread. And it was a very neat little project to bring with me while traveling, so my fellow train passengers looked a little puzzled for a while. No one dared ask me what I was making though, sadly. I have been getting into really interesting discussions with other travelers on other occasions, both on the long ferry rides to the mainland and on boring trainrides across the mainland.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGrepcUUrLLKr_3LtgKpMtUDc1pcgfqAUs9MbQawg43Jo3AajJetpKkyHDO74T5xvqisS25B3-PEYl43kFfVfAa3uzYzqPAu_a1cXm0UrgWxuNzvsUHa5pzNX4Mkna0RWClsdSozTp6J0/s1600/sewn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGrepcUUrLLKr_3LtgKpMtUDc1pcgfqAUs9MbQawg43Jo3AajJetpKkyHDO74T5xvqisS25B3-PEYl43kFfVfAa3uzYzqPAu_a1cXm0UrgWxuNzvsUHa5pzNX4Mkna0RWClsdSozTp6J0/s1600/sewn.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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As all the patches were assembled I started cutting thin strips of the gilded leather in order to cover the seams. And since the leather is rather stretchy you do not need to cut it in straight lines, you can follow the natural curve of the hide and it will still shape nicely when stitched down.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEORtkTNlJJLrj5wk2pyMb6kM5N7Ds9U8jeu4_2i14oEzq8LVDuby3eQr6X41TJ0WU4VPB0GUMjiBctq8YuPp90IA8uP6dFpp5DJcQDiVqofbziV1l58FHJURhDIL5tqTv2qd2pS2ngZk/s1600/all+done.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEORtkTNlJJLrj5wk2pyMb6kM5N7Ds9U8jeu4_2i14oEzq8LVDuby3eQr6X41TJ0WU4VPB0GUMjiBctq8YuPp90IA8uP6dFpp5DJcQDiVqofbziV1l58FHJURhDIL5tqTv2qd2pS2ngZk/s1600/all+done.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">The leather strips were sewn down with a rather tight overcast stitch with linen thread covering the seams. Now I just need to cut some backing and make it all into that soft and pretty little cushion to</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">sit on. I am pondering either a nice leather so it will stand some wear, or a nice wool. </span></div>
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Done with that I moved on to try something completely different, the freehand blackwork (or in this case dark green...). Immensly inspired by a post by a very talented member in the Historic Hand Embroidery group I decided to stitch a little owl for the eldest son. He asks for a sewing kit of his own for his upcoming eight birthday and I wanted to make a pincushion. He loves owls, specifically Harry Potter´s owl, so the motif came naturally. This is made in stemstitch in silk on linen and I drew the little critter free hand.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPjNm5NV9VMcUx_QJl5r94bhK43oUDPsSTw8c19AUhxazeb7MHzx15fIUv3l7As9mJ_aaVRYiVhgkaFA2wa2ILH3qL4UswRiVORXeY2yA_PhtgFGvyrAIuNzVkN-Qu_P3y8Kz_-ZibKao/s1600/Owl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPjNm5NV9VMcUx_QJl5r94bhK43oUDPsSTw8c19AUhxazeb7MHzx15fIUv3l7As9mJ_aaVRYiVhgkaFA2wa2ILH3qL4UswRiVORXeY2yA_PhtgFGvyrAIuNzVkN-Qu_P3y8Kz_-ZibKao/s1600/Owl.jpg" height="320" width="180" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3B0U9OIXAMRHr1OSOo5ZMiaedBVSs22TMe8917TgxsE-mwJwUquV1tNgpAAzAaktkVVrCM28i9d65wkwIoHQXLiKtXLHamIl7tk1Z_QG4kQst0tQcenc1Arpd3iZeN86gMMaafZCLorM/s1600/Side+of+pincushion.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3B0U9OIXAMRHr1OSOo5ZMiaedBVSs22TMe8917TgxsE-mwJwUquV1tNgpAAzAaktkVVrCM28i9d65wkwIoHQXLiKtXLHamIl7tk1Z_QG4kQst0tQcenc1Arpd3iZeN86gMMaafZCLorM/s1600/Side+of+pincushion.jpg" height="320" width="180" /></a><br />
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For the back I took some leftover green wool from my heraldic project and stitched it together and then I covered the seams with some reversed chain stitch in bright yellow silk. I hope he will like it!<br />
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And this technique was so much fun that I decided to fulfill my promise to the youngest son and make him a linen bag for his water bottle, so that I will allow him to bring it to events. One has to give them something to keep it all fun and interesting. And for this project I even tried my centereyed embroidery needles and it works beautifully! More updates to come when this is all done.<br />
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<br />Annahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6775240648800748970.post-11034758906849776792015-01-06T13:44:00.003-08:002015-01-06T13:45:34.227-08:00Kruselers - sewn or woven?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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There are so many kruselers out there, differing in looks and most likely also in technique. Following up on my last blogpost here comes some thoughts on construction of the less elaborate kruselers, mostly seen in 15th Century art. Some say they must all be woven frilled edges. However, there seems to be exceptions.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRr-q4_TM5Bker1AGqCiYKpKSff_2muisZMSbFk7sEKbhHfonAdWIzYrQu0XmoGAWWpvpn29LMp3QURYTNkDQ2KlmcBQmOdhxhyXCT77N81YdXhQtafY8fw6JMNnjQWTHshD9TYkVjJD4/s1600/kruseler+crying+Mary.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRr-q4_TM5Bker1AGqCiYKpKSff_2muisZMSbFk7sEKbhHfonAdWIzYrQu0XmoGAWWpvpn29LMp3QURYTNkDQ2KlmcBQmOdhxhyXCT77N81YdXhQtafY8fw6JMNnjQWTHshD9TYkVjJD4/s1600/kruseler+crying+Mary.jpg" height="320" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, 'ヒラギノ角ゴ Pro W3', 'Hiragino Kaku Gothic Pro', メイリオ, Meiryo, 'MS Pゴシック', arial, sans-serif; line-height: 20px; text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Mary from "The Deposition" by Rogier van der Weyden, 1435.</span></span></td></tr>
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Here we see a clear example of what must be a woven frilled edge and it is looking the same through most of Rogier van der Weyden's art. This is obviously an expensive and exclusive fabric, woven by professionals, and you can find it recreated today, but it is costly. Just how exclusive it was can be shown also in the fact that Jesus loin cloth is depicted as frilled, from the time he was wrapped as a baby until his death.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwbtLC8gWW-nrcbmpdDTziJlqpxaRXxGmtxUXRINzY2jbzNlExvcLEMzhlfDB0OcJrAe8jm8bhiGJv1N7SJqiXRbdoea6IpS1legY9ckcYFQsFm_qcYBD3GztR8P2VOiySyCzFaZW7oNM/s1600/frilled+diapers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwbtLC8gWW-nrcbmpdDTziJlqpxaRXxGmtxUXRINzY2jbzNlExvcLEMzhlfDB0OcJrAe8jm8bhiGJv1N7SJqiXRbdoea6IpS1legY9ckcYFQsFm_qcYBD3GztR8P2VOiySyCzFaZW7oNM/s1600/frilled+diapers.jpg" height="320" width="285" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Epitaph for Konrad Winkler and his wives Kundigunde and Adelhaid, Nürnberg 1431.</span></td></tr>
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The same simple frill can also be used in more elaborate styles by simply using it in multiple layers.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7_yEcxGIGWErN3F5uDbfMyPpKCDXocz8FDtjPIpPsaK4I1heLKnRh6KQzzTmgZ0Ngz1SWXsrVWxVMLOsTelWyXjk0x5nsJkkAV5TsPx2hLvpxOXvh8Sqcc6YWeOKKTJVRABu5nJy7wJg/s1600/the+Arnolfini+bethrothal+Jan+van+Eyck.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7_yEcxGIGWErN3F5uDbfMyPpKCDXocz8FDtjPIpPsaK4I1heLKnRh6KQzzTmgZ0Ngz1SWXsrVWxVMLOsTelWyXjk0x5nsJkkAV5TsPx2hLvpxOXvh8Sqcc6YWeOKKTJVRABu5nJy7wJg/s1600/the+Arnolfini+bethrothal+Jan+van+Eyck.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, 'ヒラギノ角ゴ Pro W3', 'Hiragino Kaku Gothic Pro', メイリオ, Meiryo, 'MS Pゴシック', arial, sans-serif; line-height: 17px; text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Portrait of Giovanni Arnolfini and his Wife (detail) 1434 by Jan van Eyck</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVoFsvEaCBfF4j3C7hyphenhyphenEykflzC8LPJbq0XfhJm_1fHL4hO72hGkT5Se_VvrfPXdT4bs71SrY79FT_YtDz4fs4Cg5dMAt5dwTvHl6oIHThRfGbevnr6vaNz5JAkzPP8OMMphCZ_fwK90cQ/s1600/layering+frills+van+der+Weyden.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVoFsvEaCBfF4j3C7hyphenhyphenEykflzC8LPJbq0XfhJm_1fHL4hO72hGkT5Se_VvrfPXdT4bs71SrY79FT_YtDz4fs4Cg5dMAt5dwTvHl6oIHThRfGbevnr6vaNz5JAkzPP8OMMphCZ_fwK90cQ/s1600/layering+frills+van+der+Weyden.jpg" height="320" width="191" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, 'ヒラギノ角ゴ Pro W3', 'Hiragino Kaku Gothic Pro', メイリオ, Meiryo, 'MS Pゴシック', arial, sans-serif; line-height: 20px; text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Detail from St. John Altarpiece by Rogier van der Weyden, 1455 - 1460</span></span></td></tr>
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The same frilled fabric also seems to be in use in the German styles of late 15th Century, pressing on to the fashions of 16th Century. Here we see one of many examples where it is combined with a vulst.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCJRhxPeaFoRh8KCQu_nD7QnXetHv7h2yxybqtS7RPLpTwXzCeWHCboDBMs8oHtxFoTacUqszb-kVBTrbflK4iaDyl4WXwQFoejN8qID1RMhLFpep0j88DSKgFNw67zxvZ6FtTRegikoQ/s1600/Hofer+frilled+vulst.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCJRhxPeaFoRh8KCQu_nD7QnXetHv7h2yxybqtS7RPLpTwXzCeWHCboDBMs8oHtxFoTacUqszb-kVBTrbflK4iaDyl4WXwQFoejN8qID1RMhLFpep0j88DSKgFNw67zxvZ6FtTRegikoQ/s1600/Hofer+frilled+vulst.jpg" height="320" width="241" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Portrait of a woman from the Hofer Family, artist unknown, ca 1470</span></td></tr>
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Frills are also in use in Burgundy, England and France, although adapted to the local headdress fashion. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8HvC-VWvG7aIgF5pKkugBZwaIoovPyjZDmfYyBpKFkmz4mBQ3Nx__0aZhDjosBCdSQSmRTHLttIUn-SHpCqulRi7b62uyqKYG_qPnPzXdH8exY7c4nWtovio6cWcN2_A8_7Qw3xy_GMc/s1600/Mary+of+Burgundy+frill.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8HvC-VWvG7aIgF5pKkugBZwaIoovPyjZDmfYyBpKFkmz4mBQ3Nx__0aZhDjosBCdSQSmRTHLttIUn-SHpCqulRi7b62uyqKYG_qPnPzXdH8exY7c4nWtovio6cWcN2_A8_7Qw3xy_GMc/s1600/Mary+of+Burgundy+frill.jpg" height="320" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Portrait of Mary of Burgundy wearing a small frill under her hennin.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi06xHRiAfeH-MZJsq_6azrjnJAwrKmdAtE9jm03z-D7AM_PWr90CH56AdyynK8SmztkmghC7sOgKSPovPSGqoxOBMoLyUukzHflV11M7lr37VxTS9gboin4u1lcj5jYb9rANszOo5MQ9M/s1600/Anne+de+Dreux+frills.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi06xHRiAfeH-MZJsq_6azrjnJAwrKmdAtE9jm03z-D7AM_PWr90CH56AdyynK8SmztkmghC7sOgKSPovPSGqoxOBMoLyUukzHflV11M7lr37VxTS9gboin4u1lcj5jYb9rANszOo5MQ9M/s1600/Anne+de+Dreux+frills.jpg" height="320" width="245" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Portrait of a young woman, possibly Anne de Dreux, ca 1490</span>.</td></tr>
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And by now you are starting to wonder if I will ever get to the point. Where there possibly exceptions from the woven frill in plain single rows? I did find some beautiful frills that do give the impression of having a seam connecting it to the veil, even though it is a single frill when visiting the Germanisches National Museum in Nürnberg on New Years. And they are from the 14th Century, not the 15th. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2S0HAglE7jQQ3b721YkKF8XUUmz3n1Edfqv42L7IYBNzOX_ooZbhCANWjx_hVJZc_EWdd1EYy2ZuNqliJFeqG7Ww1jRc3RcVPOFtkGycI7qBBundF_0Dj8oU623P6dev2tqlgeZY5Eys/s1600/sewn+on+frill.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2S0HAglE7jQQ3b721YkKF8XUUmz3n1Edfqv42L7IYBNzOX_ooZbhCANWjx_hVJZc_EWdd1EYy2ZuNqliJFeqG7Ww1jRc3RcVPOFtkGycI7qBBundF_0Dj8oU623P6dev2tqlgeZY5Eys/s1600/sewn+on+frill.jpg" height="320" width="279" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Mary, from Frauenkirche in Nürnberg, ca 1360</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7wcQ9bADxmuMwORsyJRroluzr8FXNFE_ZL4QTQpqryn2tvXosqFdnwvBI3OJRtUHoxeVyltV5yv0R0ghenm_nnUhHDbCRrQ4cqnlYsv5MhjBgFX8vg83_knfZlusI-SqEie269sxTP7g/s1600/N%C3%BCrnberg+frills+1360.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7wcQ9bADxmuMwORsyJRroluzr8FXNFE_ZL4QTQpqryn2tvXosqFdnwvBI3OJRtUHoxeVyltV5yv0R0ghenm_nnUhHDbCRrQ4cqnlYsv5MhjBgFX8vg83_knfZlusI-SqEie269sxTP7g/s1600/N%C3%BCrnberg+frills+1360.jpg" height="320" width="229" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Female statue from a church in Nürnberg ca 1360.</span></td></tr>
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And in case you now are wondering the artform might have an impact on how the frills are depicted, here is another one in stone, clearly without the line that I would like to interpret as a seam. Same church and same period as the first one.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi3E-7uVO2OPidelpbzF0m75BIB1bt8iPHjKQ8XsjlaCAOdkt3b78a3kX3R0fwFkaePdai8vSqI2iZ4ZxapTeVPOuWeBBrp4iiMxVwwMS21VyzK_4rBcopg8s5a7snXhnPKV0JrZCOnE8/s1600/N%C3%BCrnberg+woven+frill.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi3E-7uVO2OPidelpbzF0m75BIB1bt8iPHjKQ8XsjlaCAOdkt3b78a3kX3R0fwFkaePdai8vSqI2iZ4ZxapTeVPOuWeBBrp4iiMxVwwMS21VyzK_4rBcopg8s5a7snXhnPKV0JrZCOnE8/s1600/N%C3%BCrnberg+woven+frill.jpg" height="304" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Statue from the south portal av the Frauenkirche in Nürnberg, ca 1360.</span><br />
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So one can not state, in my opinion, that frills were only woven when done in single rows and simpler styles. Good to know, now I will not have to spend like half a month´s salary on a frilled veil, I can make one myself. Even though I really really like one that is woven.<br />
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Annahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6775240648800748970.post-78167026066501525182014-12-28T13:15:00.001-08:002015-01-26T03:24:28.553-08:00Two kruseler or frilled veils<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdIIuIy2QCeKSEOgemIqAU9HnrkceL7C009l9zYKgD87r8-LnQqlFlPMLadfYgMIiT9mJ-YiMzqpqZ2ZrBcsub3VvBqnc49FqbMC3Mm_Ogox7bXdtDMvLgF5uh2x3LFH7TZ7w8vLZ2oIQ/s1600/DSC_1891.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdIIuIy2QCeKSEOgemIqAU9HnrkceL7C009l9zYKgD87r8-LnQqlFlPMLadfYgMIiT9mJ-YiMzqpqZ2ZrBcsub3VvBqnc49FqbMC3Mm_Ogox7bXdtDMvLgF5uh2x3LFH7TZ7w8vLZ2oIQ/s1600/DSC_1891.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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Having had a hectic Autumn at work nothing much has been done, or so I thought. But being forced to go through all my pics and decide what to keep I noticed that there has been some sewing after all.<br />
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Here comes a brief show of two kruselers I made for others, one is sewn in small pipes and then starched, the other one is a softer look with lots and lots of neatly hemmed linnen strips, gathered and the secured.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0fON-cyj0Jrz-E-iA0-5pq516Ce5GU1uwgBM6a17aNWC5Nnk7mMLYzsBod01u4DhqU_GSAadxeVBuz-SbZOWP5BHkM7mDgIariMrvAHRwFw62IZqvDLYOSZvIe8f5WmRpkukHEmNFtCM/s1600/DSC_1873.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0fON-cyj0Jrz-E-iA0-5pq516Ce5GU1uwgBM6a17aNWC5Nnk7mMLYzsBod01u4DhqU_GSAadxeVBuz-SbZOWP5BHkM7mDgIariMrvAHRwFw62IZqvDLYOSZvIe8f5WmRpkukHEmNFtCM/s1600/DSC_1873.jpg" height="320" width="179" /></a><br />
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First, cutting. In order to get a very straight, on the grain-cut, I first pull out threads in the linnen weave and then cut along the line.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3-QxDZrdhbwes6KS61xVezLl4QwOE02LyJHuPHCXxcVvhp3FUB4p7LpD7VhTl-RyvsoqcK0gyvAsnzInrgqhqvINiWdeIN3cUwAKuvLOfw1ORoQt-i4BvH9upuUGKGnTWW7csnmeZcEk/s1600/DSC_1875.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3-QxDZrdhbwes6KS61xVezLl4QwOE02LyJHuPHCXxcVvhp3FUB4p7LpD7VhTl-RyvsoqcK0gyvAsnzInrgqhqvINiWdeIN3cUwAKuvLOfw1ORoQt-i4BvH9upuUGKGnTWW7csnmeZcEk/s1600/DSC_1875.jpg" height="179" width="320" /></a><br />
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When it is all cut I press them, preferably with a little spray starch, makes it easier to fold when hemming. Then comes hours after hours of hemming teeny tiny hems. The strips for the gathered kruseler are hemmed on both sides, then folded alongside the middle and gathered with two rows of parallell gather stitches. Then a small strip is sewn on and attached around the gathering creases to hold it all in place. This gives you a rather sturdy kruseler that can be sewn or simply pinned onto your veil.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGmmVEn4UCS7KqjnIX2F7-QUz17Mud_NrAHb_VYcRc2kJ41tPuBXYxMwGv69svKUi-ZlsUmbByPqGfmyaWgXl3wSODO9wSrhKQOCYv6zVm7wSq3seEOYDGpZRwAw-T0L4IdnGx_KU1Qd8/s1600/DSC_1879.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGmmVEn4UCS7KqjnIX2F7-QUz17Mud_NrAHb_VYcRc2kJ41tPuBXYxMwGv69svKUi-ZlsUmbByPqGfmyaWgXl3wSODO9wSrhKQOCYv6zVm7wSq3seEOYDGpZRwAw-T0L4IdnGx_KU1Qd8/s1600/DSC_1879.jpg" height="200" width="112" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBrhmU9tl2Xgfrmt6UFqGFfH0xZtrfQRRXwepiLeLczmi5kUm9Jyq_VyFUUxp6NNbT-1shqAUFHRuQdlRT_aSwFf_i0lQGZr02WJryJulEW-QTL7tcEBzbNp76fRJCikKgq-Lu7vFQefM/s1600/IMG_20141019_103305.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBrhmU9tl2Xgfrmt6UFqGFfH0xZtrfQRRXwepiLeLczmi5kUm9Jyq_VyFUUxp6NNbT-1shqAUFHRuQdlRT_aSwFf_i0lQGZr02WJryJulEW-QTL7tcEBzbNp76fRJCikKgq-Lu7vFQefM/s1600/IMG_20141019_103305.jpg" height="200" width="112" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_4RPJ6MyaTNvPjRKLQgRP5Yp5TtCU4sTIjjLazdT6H2QIvEMe6_rFkQvevyUoCpBiAafVFv8C0yaOrd7ge5KAiVpg1oN_efUcFQZTQfsxcUWrzeqhMzZ5dyOasAcR0qJYFRVb9caMLAo/s1600/DSC_1877.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_4RPJ6MyaTNvPjRKLQgRP5Yp5TtCU4sTIjjLazdT6H2QIvEMe6_rFkQvevyUoCpBiAafVFv8C0yaOrd7ge5KAiVpg1oN_efUcFQZTQfsxcUWrzeqhMzZ5dyOasAcR0qJYFRVb9caMLAo/s1600/DSC_1877.jpg" height="200" width="112" /></a></div>
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The other veil demands a bit more measuring but does not need that long strips. I made the pipes 1 cm wide, then they will be filled out fine with an ordinary earplug to create the round shape when drying after being drenched in starch.<br />
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Both recipients were happy but I have not yet seen them properly worn, but I hope to see them come spring.<br />
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<br />Annahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6775240648800748970.post-2029415861180103342014-07-19T14:47:00.001-07:002014-07-20T01:04:55.548-07:00Summer greensI have for a number of years had a large pile of a wonderful thin but tight woven wool fabric with an amazing drape to it. It was bought without a specific plan and over the years I have made so many different plans for it but none were realised.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZaXS1tg7MqDpf2HEOX-OZkF4IKWWY5heRk5suE-RGAo1vqUOs8Va8jPI4e6Bpivvr1fRhQNjr697b-7Nkb6v4u019902Ws1nc1KMeHmH8Jqku91OIVuiLs3WHq_7EkdXbDwDQ7yQ0QvM/s1600/Housebook+tourney+riding.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZaXS1tg7MqDpf2HEOX-OZkF4IKWWY5heRk5suE-RGAo1vqUOs8Va8jPI4e6Bpivvr1fRhQNjr697b-7Nkb6v4u019902Ws1nc1KMeHmH8Jqku91OIVuiLs3WHq_7EkdXbDwDQ7yQ0QvM/s1600/Housebook+tourney+riding.jpg" height="200" width="108" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5uEuLUXGFEKlX5N4rPyixPSw7Gup1CVuWEZeWFFv7uaeC2ILGXnWtTCPBluFj18ijPrNlrxwY4_KjS89EeQt4hHH9jY-KvCRzqH7Twb2hCNbr_tD8N8yNjAERuPmXk0Ugk_VnF4vqR0A/s1600/Housebook+tourney+turban.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5uEuLUXGFEKlX5N4rPyixPSw7Gup1CVuWEZeWFFv7uaeC2ILGXnWtTCPBluFj18ijPrNlrxwY4_KjS89EeQt4hHH9jY-KvCRzqH7Twb2hCNbr_tD8N8yNjAERuPmXk0Ugk_VnF4vqR0A/s1600/Housebook+tourney+turban.jpg" height="200" width="105" /></a>Since I started focusing on my main period of garb, the German late 15th Century, and managed to make my own interpretation of the pleated panel kirtle (Hausbook, Dürer kleid, Nürnberger kleid or whatever you choose to call it) my research also showed me variations of a deep V-neck kirtle without pleated panels. I thought that would work fine as more of an everyday dress and decided to make one out of this greyish green fabric that had been laying on a cupboard shelf for years.<br />
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I looked into some more period depictions and decided on a very simple version with plain long sleeves with the same shoulder- and back as my brown shortsleeved kirtle, and with a frontlacing going over the V-neckline. The two green ones shown here are both taken from a larger piece depicting a tourney with audience by Master of the Hausbook. So, not all dresses depicted by him are what we tend to call Hausbook dress. They are both rather simple, with a plain long sleeve and a marked waistline and the deep V-neckline I find so appealing. And to my great joy I noted the wonderful diversion of headgear in this the very same picture.<br />
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This drawing is by another master of the same period and region, Ishrael van Meckenem, and shows a woman with a really deep V-neck, laced across inbetween what looks like some kind of clasps. The sleeves are a bit more elaborate though.<br />
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Here is yet another depiction by another artist, showing the V-neck.<br />
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And here is a rather nice pic of the back, showing the deep inserts of the sleeves.<br />
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I started with the bodice and cut it with a white linen lining, stitched it and then I cut the skirtpart in four panels, sewed them together and then attached the skirt to the bodice, not taking enough care to adjust the length of the bodice. That turned out really bad, more on that later. Last I assembled the sleeves, rather tight and with one large gusset over the shoulder. Here is a rather bad pic showing it all sewn together.<br />
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As you can see when looking closer, the skirt does not fall well below the waist, it kind of crumbles and makes creases, and the bodice itself is all wrinkled along the sides. When wearing it the shoulder seams move upwards together with the entire bodice and it felt all wrong. Almost in despair I asked: can I live with this or will it agonize me forever? At last I decided that it just doesn´t work and simply cut it loose above the waist and ended with shortening the bodice approximately three centimetres. It really did the trick I tell you! And I should know better...<br />
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All done it got worn properly assecorized today and documented on the first spin. And look how much happier I am with a properly placed waistseam!Annahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6775240648800748970.post-3897494962522121152014-04-21T10:56:00.003-07:002014-04-21T11:17:31.812-07:00Bright lights! Bright lights!The spring sun is shining, warm, bright, beautiful sunshine and then you realize, while enjoying the first event of the season, that the neckline of your dress is no longer flattering since you got the sunburn from hell. Sounds familiar? I guess I´m not alone. So here is how to cover up and still be true to the late 15th Century - the linen gollar.<br />
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When I first saw this high-cut gollar in pictures I mistook it for a chemise with a high collar, but with a little more research I was proven wrong. As seen in this portrait of a young girl by Albrecht Dürer, the linen gollar covers the neck, chest and shoulders in a rather lowcut dress.<br />
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And this is how I made mine, that I will be sure to bring to the first outdoor events.<br />
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I first cut it in three parts, but in order to make it fit nicely into the neckline I decided to make a seam in the back as well. I made it in double layers and hid all the seamallowances, so that it is reversable.<br />
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Here you see it on top of the neckline that I want to cover, and then how it looks when neatly tucked in and pinned in the front. No more sunburn for me! And it is also good in winter, under a furlined gollar for instance, protecting the fur from the warm and sticky skin of the neck, or protecting that sensitive skin from a itchy wool gollar or overdress.<br />
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<br />Annahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6775240648800748970.post-6557058986819703492014-03-30T03:42:00.000-07:002014-03-30T03:42:41.962-07:00Springcleaning the medieval wardrobeYesterday we had the first warm day of spring, with sunshine and birdsong. Perfect for some spring cleaning and preparing your garb for a new event season. To take good care of all your wooly stuff, here is some tips and tricks for you.<br />
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Wool does not need to nor keep well if washed frequently. I hardly ever wash my wool clothing in the washing machine, since it is hard on the fibres and I want them to last long, considering the investment I made in money and work hours.<br />
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First of all, air your clothes at least once a year. Pull out everything and hang it freely so that the fresh air reaches into every crease and fold. This also prevents moth attacks. I let them hang for two-three hours.<br />
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Go over every garment and check for stains, holes, or ripped seams and fix them right away. Here is how I take out stains of food or drink on wool, with baby wipes or a moist cloth.<br />
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One thing that I almost always need to mend are my kneehose. They are patched several times and here is how I do that.<br />
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When I made them, I did think first and made the choice of making the soles in a steadier and thicker wool than the hose. Evenso, they do get a lot of wear. As you can see, both the heels are patched. One was so worn I simply cut the remains of the sole away and patched it with a new piece. The other one was not as bad so there I put a new piece on the inside and stitched it thouroughly.<br />
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This is how it looks on the inside. And no, I do not think all mending-patches must match the original fabric.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBjyJiLtTbf6ksZ8QhX9_X4LXpAEARHcdPsu6KXfA3HWpNW7kNAa3xb3Xmczo-sr8eudOz0KNy3aGhHbAn7ZjBujD1uJELT3_JvuyGRz7GqRbNcAmmN1balwfTpZBC6NIUGpBzMWI8ED4/s1600/h%C3%A5lt%C3%A5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBjyJiLtTbf6ksZ8QhX9_X4LXpAEARHcdPsu6KXfA3HWpNW7kNAa3xb3Xmczo-sr8eudOz0KNy3aGhHbAn7ZjBujD1uJELT3_JvuyGRz7GqRbNcAmmN1balwfTpZBC6NIUGpBzMWI8ED4/s1600/h%C3%A5lt%C3%A5.jpg" height="320" width="307" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8qsD5TpqnBtauKkvRgKfkB_I9jIxhlKC315wN3ah9qOy25mI8eKCC8Cp5tAlhqPPPeNbOAzvRin_RlHCKcbAhTcbaXkIFseUYOX8VwmENj7oJwQoL1lo0MIe-RlSP5j_1Dq2aSDUZbg0/s1600/n%C3%A5lad+lapp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8qsD5TpqnBtauKkvRgKfkB_I9jIxhlKC315wN3ah9qOy25mI8eKCC8Cp5tAlhqPPPeNbOAzvRin_RlHCKcbAhTcbaXkIFseUYOX8VwmENj7oJwQoL1lo0MIe-RlSP5j_1Dq2aSDUZbg0/s1600/n%C3%A5lad+lapp.jpg" height="174" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga1LRTQTJzMqRkVtH96CTH7TqsLGwD5S9F-xpZvCRbffzr2yNtCGsIuxKOUSdzxSnq-m1NKBoSemb5DrC-HOanIRpYx16j7y79YZnnHJvfDmL0UB5TsAAd8SQ9azJclxt__Qir0hmw9Ow/s1600/sy+runtruntrunt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga1LRTQTJzMqRkVtH96CTH7TqsLGwD5S9F-xpZvCRbffzr2yNtCGsIuxKOUSdzxSnq-m1NKBoSemb5DrC-HOanIRpYx16j7y79YZnnHJvfDmL0UB5TsAAd8SQ9azJclxt__Qir0hmw9Ow/s1600/sy+runtruntrunt.jpg" height="171" width="200" /></a> Going over the hose I found a new little hole in the toe. And it is better to patch it straight away before it gets worse. I cut a new patch of wool and pinned it on the inside. Then I fastened it with some whipstitch, took out the pins and then stitch the entire patch with running stitch, that makes the mending steadier.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglWpN0uVFvublVbBpOp6y7fmGO5Df_9qq5_twRGDRHStYij9BqIQpi3EbgXfIDt9HHRtflGp1vLJPZLveAqT0A2EWjVtNQGv13y2NIDjy-DUhDRye-axO7w_CdlDtIbM7BH0OCodU1HLY/s1600/lappad+t%C3%A5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglWpN0uVFvublVbBpOp6y7fmGO5Df_9qq5_twRGDRHStYij9BqIQpi3EbgXfIDt9HHRtflGp1vLJPZLveAqT0A2EWjVtNQGv13y2NIDjy-DUhDRye-axO7w_CdlDtIbM7BH0OCodU1HLY/s1600/lappad+t%C3%A5.jpg" height="302" width="400" /></a></div>
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And this is the result, a nice piece of patchwork and my hose are ready for another season. These hose are now about seven or eight years and I wear them on almost every event I go too.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBDPFjDQP_74VB4u7UtRkQi3cKjyBiwP_LJ1LsRGkPMoHud3wYBnOdCQrOB6zLOyciLB7HSJJyLm4XZJEv4Fe0fXmHXDojo4oXlkWCShg2dl3SGlB8Pmy3ieZqtAHzhlhmjkHMTJO9pvI/s1600/bytt+rockknapp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBDPFjDQP_74VB4u7UtRkQi3cKjyBiwP_LJ1LsRGkPMoHud3wYBnOdCQrOB6zLOyciLB7HSJJyLm4XZJEv4Fe0fXmHXDojo4oXlkWCShg2dl3SGlB8Pmy3ieZqtAHzhlhmjkHMTJO9pvI/s1600/bytt+rockknapp.jpg" height="320" width="212" /></a>Another thing that needs to be done is to replace or fasten loose buttons. After some years I did not have any scraps of the original fabric of my husbands coat left, so I simply took another kind of fabric. I think it is a good sign of a loved piece of garb, and even extant pieces are mended over and over. One of the best written sources of garb research are wills, showing that garments were inherited for generations.<br />
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Now I just need to pack everything away again, hopefully in some kind of order, and finally hem that dress I made in December...<br />
<br />Annahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09131785603929114538noreply@blogger.com0