The model is based primarily on the dress shown in this little drawing by Martin Schongauer, depicting a young girl fanning a fire with a bird´s wing:
The dress looks fairly simple in cut, not fitted in the bodice but simply gathered by the belt in the waist and the lovely detail with a side-buttoned neck-opening. On the skirt a large frill shows, most likely a way of preserving some of the length to be used for a new bottom hem as the old one gets worn. These kind of frills can be seen on simpler kirtles during the 15th Century.
|Master of the Housebook, Children of Aristotle, detail|
|Master of the Housebook, Princess Kleodeline|
I have not found many depictions showing a woman´s kirtle with a closure to one side but here is one that looks pinned.
|Israel van Meckenem, Couple seated on a bed|
The hat deserves a chapter of its own, I will see when I might get to that.