|The original as presented|
|The first mockup looked right enough.|
Some essential measurements are however not stated in the book, such as the width over the neck. Winging it did not work. It got way to narrow to get over my head. So onto next mockup, and then some...
As I finally got a mockup that worked, I was pleased to see that the original measurements were mostly still there. Time to cut the actual fabric, and that is always excruciating when you have only that amount of fabric that has been custom made for you.
|The final mockup|
|The hood cut out of Maria´s lovely striped fabric|
As everything was cut all that remained was the sewing part. The original pieces of clothing in Herjolfsnes were sewn with a twisted wool thread. In Medieval Garments Reconstructed the sewing threads from Herjolfsnes are described as specifically made for stitching, S-twisted of two Z-spun threads and rarely over one mm in diameter. It is also stated that it is virtually impossible to purchase this kind of thread for sewing a reconstruction. Hence I chose to use a two-ply thin brown wool thread, most likely a lot thinner than the original,but found easily available in my sewing basket. The stitches of the originals are also described in Medieval Garments Reconstructed as very fine and no longer than 5 mm. Since I tend to make small stitches this was right up my alley.
Sewing the pieces together was done rather quickly, and I was happy to see the project progressing. Then came the not so fun parts. like felling all the seams inside of the liripipe in order for them not to fray on me. And the liripipe has two long seams, giving me four long sides to fell... This called for some aiding equipment. When all seams where done and felled and the hood had a shape I finally got to the fun part, the decorative stabstitching. The original hood has two rows of fine stab stitching along the bottom hem and around the face opening. This is a time-consuming part of the project, but well worth it in the end. These are the sewing details that really makes these garments.
|Stab stitches along the hem|