As many may know, I am a huge fan of the art of Nüremberg artist Albrecht Dürer. One of my absolute favourite pieces is his portrait of the Young fürlegerin with her hair in braids. I have looked at this so many times and I still find new details in it. Now I want to look specifically on her shift, or hemd as it is called in German.
It is a lovely hemd, with an embroidered smocked front and black lining along the neckline. But as one looks at many different portraits and paintings from the same time and region, I noticed something about that neckline. The back seems to be drawn down towards the front so that the back neckline also covers the entire shoulder. I will try and illustrate what I mean with some more pictures.
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Wolf Traut, Portrait of a woman, Nüremberg 1510 |
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Hans Holbein the Younger, Portrait of a woman |
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Detail of a painting, showing the Young woman in green in a similar hemd |
The back seems to be a rounded line, not indicating a seam or anything other than over the front shoulder where it meets the front.
I found this a bit intriguing so I had to experiment a bit with a simple version af a hemd, where the back is wider than the front, thus curving down over the shoulder and forming that seamless line down the front.
So my version is a plain shift in two pieces, two sidegores and sleeves and in order to clearly illustrate the slanted backpiece/shoulder, I put in a small lining of the neckline in black silk. Here it is:
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The shoulder part hanging down in the front |
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The hemd when done |
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Construction with sidegore sewn directly to the sleeve |
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Worn with my blue Hausbook dress over it |
And clearly I have nothing to wear on top of it, since all my dresses are fairly high in the neck and doesn´t show anything of the shoulders.
Åh, den här skjortan har jag funderat väldigt mkt på hur den är konstruerad också. Kul att någon försöker sig på den! Blir sugen på att testa själva också nu.
SvaraRadera