Pouch progress

My first attempt at goldwork is now slowly turning into a small pouch with a 3D embroidery in red and gold. The embroidery consists of cloth appliqué in multiple layers, with edgings in gold and silk. I learned the trick of only fastening the supporting fabric in the embroidery frame and then stitching the top fabric onto this, thus avoiding tension and wear of the top fabric by the frame. I have mixed thicker gold thread (the center cross and the outer edge) and thinner gold thread (edging the heart-shaped appliqués).

This is how the back looks now, after the excess support fabric has been cut down. I will of course line the entire pouch in a steady linnen fabric so that the back won´t be worn by objects carried in it.

For finishing the pouch, I will either do a woven edge all around or a passpoal-edging in red cloth.

Battle of Wisby 1361-2011

Today we went to town to watch the reenactment of the Battle of Wisby 1361, when the danish king Valdemar Atterdag won over the gotlanders outside the city walls. It was hot today, and sunny, and lots and lots of people watching. This is when the danes and the gotlanders engage on the battle field, the danes to the left. I found it interesting, being the first time I watched reenacted fighting like this, and just a tad theatrical. Not as much adrenaline and some of the participants forgot what they were doing and looked at the audience and the cameras... But overall fun and impressive!

Goldwork

Yesterday was spent in excellent company trying to get the techniques of goldwork, one of many interesting workshops held this week in the Battle of Wisby encampment. Now the technique of sewing down the gold with fine silk wasn´t that different from other embroidery stitches I´ve tried before, but fun! And shiny, especially when we moved out into the sun. But I was inspired and will surely do more of it, and I got the tip on different ways for getting a 3D-effect. The one I´ve tried on the green is simply stitching on another piece of cloth on top. I will try also the way of stitching coarsely with wool thread and then cover it with embroidery or even with small pieces of silk.

Radio Ga-Ga

So, today I went early (well, fairly early) into town in order to meet up with the local radio that wanted to make a report on what is and what is not medieval in the dress of the visitors of MTV. I was called in as some kind of expert (hmpf, not sure that´s a good thing). But we had fun and some of the guys that I criticised came and asked about a million questions on whats right and wrong and what they should think about for future projects. The afternoon was spent fabric shopping and listening to Margareta Nockert. Interesting but not that inspirational as Isis Sturtewegens lecture yesterday. Some of my shopping today will most definetly be used for a frilled veil or two.

Todays outfit is the blue dress now worn with an open hood, more french than german...

Now sorting out what I need for tomorrows workshop - I´m learning goldwork!

Going 14th century

Today I will guard the camp for a couple of hours and since I suspect I might have to fill the lanterns or someting else messy, I picked out my best working dress. The dress was my first 14th century buttoned dress in thin brown wool and I love it!

Finds from the market

Yesterday I sent my husband and the eldest son off for a trip out the harbour in the Hanseatic kogg. They were supposed to be away for half an hour or so, but the ship wrecked and had to call out Sea rescue in order to get towed back. They sure got their moneys worth, gone for three hours! And they had fun. The youngest and me went to the market and, besides some toys and trinkets for him, I bought this. Some pottery, as always when I find something I like, and bling for my belts. And the hoop for making a really nice 15th century pouch, Dürer-style...

New day - new outfit

Hoping that today will not offer as much rain as yesterday, I´ve chosen my fully lined black short-sleeved dress. Aiming to look proper, I put on my smocked apron, gefrens and double layers of white headcloths. I will hold a 15 minute lecture on headgear today at the local museum. It will be a speedy show and tell where the audience will be able to ask questions and look at different hats, hoods and caps...

All dressed up

So, today the Medieval week on Gotland begins and I´ve picked the new dress to wear. This is how it looks on with all accessories, like white shift, green gefrens, the swiss-inspired headcloth, the Dürer-inspired pouch and all. I think I can show my self at the market without shame...

One 14th-century dress to go

So, finally, at eleven minutes past midnight, I was done. And with still a couple of days to go!

This is a dress that a friend is going to use during Battle of Wisby, the commemoration of the large battle outside of Visby in 1361.

Sewn in dark green wool cloth, the dress is cut in four pieces with gores back, front and in the sides. The bodice and sleeves are lined with linen, and the lining for the sleeves is cut on the bias for maximal movability. Laced in the front and buttoned in the sleeves I´m hoping it will be a good dress to use for everyday work.

Since it got a little short lengthwise, I decided to do the hem with a band of contrasting fabric in stead of sewing it up. This gives at least two to three centimetres on the length and gives the dress a more elaborate look.

Buttons are sewn in the fabric scraps of the dress and lacingholes, buttonholes and buttons are sewn with a steady black silk that will hold.

A fitted gown in the making

Helping out friends with their wedding clothes (the wedding is soon, real soon..) I went to their home and completely forgot to bring my Herjolfsnes patterns for a fitted gown. But since I remembered Robin Nethertons alternative interpretation on how to make the "advanced" tailored sidegores in her article on Greenland fashion in volume four of Medieval textiles and clothing, I decided to give the method a go. It is really simple, cut the front and back panels, then cut triangular gores, as many as you want, and then you start fitting the dress on the recipient. We decided to make it simple, with two side-gores, and cut out the pieces in an old bed-sheet in order to get at pattern to keep.

When we were done, this is how it looks spread out. Doesn´t it look quite like the original?

I´ve got a new dress!

So, even though I´m busy with commissions, helping friends and trying to relax a bit during my vacation I´ve managed to finish one new dress all for me. It´s a german-swiss inspired shortsleeved dress in dark blue and grey herringbone patterned wool. The sleeves are a bit to long, but I´m thinking of lining them so that I can fold them up a bit with a contrasting colour. The question´s just, which colour?

The cut-out is simple, a four-piece bodice and the skirt in four parts as well. Not that much width since I ran out of fabric, but it´s supposed to be a working kirtle for everyday use. The bodice is lined with linnen for support and is cut in a rather deep V-neckline in the back.

Now I just need to finish that lovely green 14-th century dress that´s sadly not for me. The details are turning out fine, just takes to much time!

I just might go back to 14th century myself after this amusing little excavation into german 15th and 16th century. Going to lectures on frilled veils with Isis Sturtewagen and 14th century cut and materials in clothing by Margareta Nockert next week just might push me over the edge...